Ka pulupulu Xijiang
ʻO ka pulupulu Xinjiang ka hapa nui i ka pulupulu maikaʻi a me ka pulupulu lōʻihi, ʻo ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o lākou he fineness a me ka lōʻihi; ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o ka lōʻihi a me ka maikaʻi o ka pulupulu maʻamau ma mua o ka pulupulu maikaʻi. Ma muli o ke aniau a me ka noʻonoʻo ʻana o nā wahi hana, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka lole ʻo Xinjiang, ka lōʻihi, ka fiber haole a me ka ikaika i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me nā wahi hana pulupulu ʻē aʻe ma Kina.
No laila, ʻo ka lole i ulana ʻia me Xinjiang pulupulu wili he maikaʻi ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana a me ka permeability, maikaʻi gloss, kiʻekiʻe ikaika, a emi iho nā hemahema, ʻo ia hoʻi ka ʻelele o ka maikaʻi o ka lole pulupulu maʻemaʻe home i kēia manawa; I ka manawa like, ʻo ka pulupulu pulupulu i hana ʻia me ka pulupulu Xinjiang he nui ka nui o ka fiber, no laila ua paʻa ka pumehana maikaʻi.
Ma Xinjiang, ʻo nā kūlana kūlohelohe kūʻokoʻa, ka lepo alkaline, lawa ka lā a me ka wā ulu lōʻihi e ʻoi aku ka kaulana o ka pulu Xinjiang. ʻO ka pulupulu Xinjiang he palupalu, ʻoluʻolu i ka lawelawe ʻana, maikaʻi i ka lawe ʻana i ka wai, a ʻoi aku kona maikaʻi ma mua o nā pulu ʻē aʻe.
Hana ʻia ka pulupulu Xinjiang ma ka hema a me ka ʻākau o Xinjiang. ʻO Aksu ka wahi hana nui a me ke kumu hana o ka pulupulu kiʻekiʻe. I kēia manawa, ua lilo ia i kikowaena kālepa pulupulu a me kahi e hōʻiliʻili ai i ka ʻoihana lole māmā ma Xinjiang. ʻO ka pulupulu Xinjiang ka wahi pulupulu hou loa me ka waihoʻoluʻu keʻokeʻo a me ka haʻalulu ikaika. He waiwai ʻo Xinjiang i ka wai a me ka lepo, maloʻo a ua ʻole. ʻO ia ka wahi hana pulupulu nui ma Xinjiang, e helu ana no 80% o ka hana pulupulu ma Xinjiang, a ʻo ia ke kumu hana o ka pulupulu lōʻihi. Loaʻa iā ia nā kūlana kukui kūpono, nā kumu wai kūpono, a me ke kumu wai kūpono no ka hoʻoinu pulupulu ma hope o ka heheʻe ʻana o ka hau.
He aha ka pulupulu kumu loloa? He aha ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o ia me ka pulupulu maʻamau? ʻO ka pulupulu koʻikoʻi lōʻihi e pili ana i ka pulupulu nona ka lōʻihi o ka fiber ma mua o 33mm i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka pulupulu maikaʻi. ʻO ka pulupulu koʻikoʻi lōʻihi, ʻike ʻia hoʻi ʻo ka pulupulu moku moana, he ʻano pulupulu i mahi ʻia. ʻO ka pulupulu koʻikoʻi lōʻihi ka lōʻihi o ka ulu ʻana a makemake nui i ka wela. ʻO ka manawa ulu o ka pulupulu maʻamau he 10-15 mau lā ma mua o ka pulupulu uka.
pulupulu Aigupita
Ua māhele ʻia ka pulupulu ʻAigupita i ka pulupulu maikaʻi a me ka pulupulu loloa. ʻO ka maʻamau, kamaʻilio mākou e pili ana i ka pulupulu koʻikoʻi lōʻihi. Ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia ka pulupulu ʻAigupita i nā wahi hana he nui, ma waena o ka pulupulu staple lōʻihi ma Jiza 45 wahi hana ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a me ka liʻiliʻi loa. ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o ka lōʻihi o ka fiber, ka maikaʻi a me ke oʻo ʻana o ka pulupulu koʻikoʻi o ʻAigupita ma mua o ka pulupulu Xinjiang.
Hoʻohana mau ʻia ka pulupulu koʻikoʻi o ʻAigupita e hana i nā lole kiʻekiʻe. ʻOi aku ka nui o nā ʻāpana lole he 80. ʻO nā lole i ulana ʻia he kilika e like me ka luster. Ma muli o ka lōʻihi o ka fiber a me ka hui pū ʻana, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o kona ikaika, a ua kiʻekiʻe ke kiʻekiʻe o ka wai, no laila ua hewa hoʻi kāna hana kala. ʻO ka maʻamau, ʻo ke kumukūʻai ma kahi o 1000-2000.
ʻO ka pulupuluʻAigupita kahi hōʻailona o ka mea kiʻekiʻe loa ma kaʻoihana pulupulu. ʻO ia, me ka pulupulu WISIC ma West India a me ka pulupulu SUVIN ma India, hiki ke kapa ʻia ʻo ka ʻano pulupulu maikaʻi loa ma ka honua. Kakaʻikahi loa ka pulupulu WISIC ma West India a me ka pulupulu SUVIN ma India i kēia manawa, no ka 0.00004% o ka pulupulu o ka honua. ʻO kā lākou mau lole he mau māka hoʻokupu aliʻi, ʻoi aku ka nui o ke kumukūʻai a ʻaʻole i hoʻohana ʻia i nā moena i kēia manawa. ʻOi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka hoʻopuka ʻana o ka pulupulu ʻAigupita, a ʻaʻohe ʻokoʻa koʻikoʻi o kona ʻano lole i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me nā ʻano pulupulu ʻelua ma luna. I kēia manawa, ʻo ka moena kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe ma ka mākeke ʻo ia ka pulupulu ʻAigupita.
ʻOhi ʻia ka pulupulu maʻamau e nā mīkini. Ma hope mai, hoʻohana ʻia nā reagents kemika no ka bleaching. E lilo ana ka ikaika o ka pulupulu i nawaliwali, a e poino ana ka hale o loko, a e lilo ia i mea paakiki a paakiki mahope o ka holoi ana, a e poino ka olinolino.
ʻOhi ʻia ka pulupulu ʻAigupita a hui ʻia e ka lima, i ʻike maka ʻia ke ʻano o ka pulupulu, pale i ka ʻoki ʻana i ka mīkini, a loaʻa i nā pulupulu lahilahi a lōʻihi. Maʻemaʻe maikaʻi, ʻaʻohe haumia, ʻaʻohe mea hoʻohui kemika, ʻaʻohe mea pōʻino, ʻaʻohe pōʻino i ke ʻano pulupulu, ʻaʻohe paʻakikī a palupalu ma hope o ka holoi pinepine ʻana.
ʻO ka pōmaikaʻi nui loa o ka pulupulu ʻAigupita ʻo kona fiber maikaʻi a me ka ikaika kiʻekiʻe. No laila, hiki i ka pulupulu ʻAigupita ke wili i nā kaula he nui aʻe i loko o nā wili o ka helu like ma mua o ka pulupulu maʻamau. He kiʻekiʻe ka ikaika o ka yarn, ke kūpaʻa maikaʻi a me ka paʻakikī.
Ua like ia me ke kilika, me ka lokahi maikai a me ka ikaika kiʻekiʻe, no laila, maikaʻi loa ke kaula i ulana ʻia mai ka pulupulu ʻAigupita. ʻO ke kumu, hiki ke hoʻohana pololei ʻia ke kaula me ka ʻole o ka pālua. Ma hope o ka mercerization, maʻalahi ka lole e like me ke kilika.
ʻO ka pōʻaiapili ulu o ka pulupulu ʻAigupita he 10-15 mau lā ka lōʻihi ma mua o ka pulupulu maʻamau, me ka manawa lōʻihi o ka lā, ke kūlana kiʻekiʻe, ka lint lōʻihi, ka lima maikaʻi a me ka maikaʻi loa i ka pulupulu maʻamau.
___________Mai ka papa lole
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Oct-24-2022