Ka helu ʻana a me ka nui o ka lole

Ka helu ʻana i nā kaula

ʻO ka ʻōlelo maʻamau, ʻo ka helu ʻili he ʻāpana i hoʻohana ʻia no ke ana ʻana i ka mānoanoa yarn. ʻO ka helu maʻamau he 30, 40, 60, etc. ʻO ka nui o ka helu, ʻoi aku ka lahilahi o ka ʻili, ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi o ke ʻano o ka hulu hipa, a ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka papa. Eia naʻe, ʻaʻohe pilina ma waena o ka helu lole a me ka maikaʻi o ka lole. Hiki ke kapa ʻia nā lole ʻoi aku ka nui ma mua o 100 "super". ʻOi aku ka pili o ka manaʻo o ka helu i nā lole ʻino, akā ʻaʻole ia he mea nui no nā lole huluhulu. No ka laʻana, haʻahaʻa ka helu o nā lole huluhulu e like me Harris tweed.

Lala kiʻekiʻe

ʻO ka helu kiʻekiʻe a me ka mānoanoa e hōʻike i ke ʻano o ka lole pulupulu maʻemaʻe. ʻO ka "helu kiʻekiʻe" ʻo ia ka nui o nā wili i hoʻohana ʻia i ka lole, e like me ke kaula pulupulu JC60S, JC80S, JC100S, JC120S, JC160S, JC260S, a pēlā aku. helu wili. Mai ka manaʻo o ka ʻenehana hana, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka helu wili, ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka pulupulu i hoʻohana ʻia no ka wili, e like me "long staple cotton" a i ʻole "Egyptian long staple cotton". ʻO ia ʻano wili like, ʻoluʻolu a ʻālohilohi.

Kiʻekiʻe-kiʻekiʻe

I loko o kēlā me kēia ʻīniha huinaha o ka lole, ua kapa ʻia ka ʻili maʻamau, a ʻo ka ʻili weft i kapa ʻia ʻo weft. ʻO ka huina o ka helu o nā wili weft a me ka helu o nā wili weft ka nui o ka lole. ʻO ka "kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe" e pili ana i ke kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe o ka lole a me ka weft o ka lole, ʻo ia hoʻi, he nui nā wili e hana ai i ka lole ma kēlā me kēia wahi, e like me 300, 400, 600, 1000, 12000, etc. ʻOi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka helu o ka ʻili, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka nui o ka lole.

Ka lole maʻemaʻe

Hoʻopili ʻia ka weft a me ka weft i kēlā me kēia wili. Kapa ʻia ia mau lole lole maʻemaʻe. Hōʻike ʻia ia e nā helu interlacing he nui, ʻano ʻano maʻemaʻe, ʻano like ka mua a me ke kua, ka lole māmā, ka permeability ea maikaʻi, ma kahi o 30 mau ʻāpana, a me ke kumu kūʻai kīwila.

lole ʻaʻahu

Hoʻopili ʻia ka weft a me ka weft ma ka liʻiliʻi hoʻokahi i kēlā me kēia wili ʻelua. Hiki ke hoʻololi ʻia ke ʻano o ka lole ma ka hoʻonui ʻana a i ʻole ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana i nā wahi maʻamau a me ka weft interlacing, i kapa ʻia ʻo nā lole twill. Hōʻike ʻia ʻo ia e ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o ka mua a me ke kua, liʻiliʻi nā wahi interlacing, lōʻihi lana lana, ʻoluʻolu manaʻo, kiʻekiʻe lole lole, nā huahana mānoanoa a me ka manaʻo ikaika ʻekolu-dimensional. ʻOkoʻa ka helu o nā lālā mai 30, 40 a me 60.

lole i hoʻoluʻu ʻia

ʻO ka ulana ʻulaʻula e pili ana i ka ulana ʻana i ka lole me ka ʻili kala ma mua, ma mua o ka waiho ʻana i ke kaula ma hope o ka ulana ʻana i lole keʻokeʻo. ʻO ka waihoʻoluʻu o ka lole i hoʻoluʻu ʻia he ʻano like ʻole me ka ʻokoʻa ʻole o ka waihoʻoluʻu, a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka wikiwiki o ka waihoʻoluʻu, ʻaʻole maʻalahi ke mae.

ʻO ka lole Jacquard: ke hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka "paʻi" a me ka "embroidery", e pili ana i ke ʻano i hana ʻia e ka hoʻololi ʻana o ka warp a me ka hui weft i ka wā e ulana ana ka lole. Pono ka lole Jacquard i ka helu wili maikaʻi a me nā koi kiʻekiʻe no ka pulupulu maka.

"Ke kākoʻo kiʻekiʻe a me ke kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe" lole i impermeable?

ʻO ke kaula o ka helu kiʻekiʻe a me ka lole kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe he lahilahi loa, no laila e palupalu ka lole a loaʻa ka nani. ʻOiai he lole pulupulu, ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi, ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka ʻili, a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o kāna hoʻohana ʻana ma mua o ka lole maʻamau.