1.Plain weave ntaub
Cov khoom no yog woven nrog dawb weave los yog dawb weave variation, uas muaj cov yam ntxwv ntawm ntau interlacing cov ntsiab lus, ruaj kev ntxhib los mos, du nto, thiab zoo tib yam tsos nyhuv ntawm pem hauv ntej thiab nram qab. Muaj ntau ntau yam ntawm cov ntaub npuag dawb. Thaum sib txawv thickness warp thiab weft yarns, sib txawv warp thiab weft ntom, thiab sib txawv twist, twist kev taw qhia, nro, thiab xim yarns yog siv, fabrics nrog txawv tsos los yuav woven.
Nov yog qee qhov siv cov paj rwb zoo li cov ntaub:
(1.) Plain Fabric
Daim ntaub dawb yog ib qho yooj yim weave ua los ntawm cov paj rwb ntshiab, ntshiab fiber ntau thiab cov xov paj sib xyaw; Tus naj npawb ntawm warp thiab weft yarns sib npaug los yog ze, thiab warp ceev thiab weft ntom yog sib npaug los yog ze. Cov ntaub ntawv dawb tuaj yeem muab faib ua cov ntaub ntawv ntxhib, cov ntaub ntawv nruab nrab thiab cov ntaub ntawv zoo raws li cov qauv sib txawv.
Coarse plain fabric kuj hu ua coarse cloth. Nws yog woven nrog ntxhib paj rwb xov saum 32 (tsawg dua 18 British suav) raws li warp thiab weft yarn. Nws yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm cov ntaub npuag thiab tuab lub cev, ntau neps ntawm daim ntaub nto, thiab cov ntaub tuab, ruaj thiab ruaj khov. Cov ntaub ntawv ntxhib yog siv rau cov khaub ncaws interlining lossis ua cov khaub ncaws thiab rooj tog ntaub tom qab luam ntawv thiab dyeing. Nyob rau hauv tej thaj chaw deb roob thiab tej zos nuv ntses ntug dej hiav txwv, daim ntaub ntxhib kuj siv tau los ua ntaub pua chaw pw, los yog ua ntaub ntawv rau lub tsho thiab ris tsho tom qab dyeing.
Medium daim ntaub, los yog lub nroog daim ntaub. Nws yog woven nrog nruab nrab paj rwb xov ntawm qhov loj 22-30 (26-20 ko taw) raws li warp thiab weft yarn. Nws yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm cov qauv nruj, du thiab plump daim ntaub nto, ntom qauv, ruaj khov thiab tawv tawv. Daim ntaub dawb nyob rau hauv thawj xim yog tsim rau khi dyeing thiab batik ua, thiab kuj yog feem ntau siv raws li cov qauv ntaub rau hauv ob sab phlu los yog peb-dimensional txiav. Cov ntaub dawb hauv kev dyeing feem ntau yog siv rau cov tsho xws li, ris lossis blouses.
Cov ntaub zoo nkauj kuj hu ua cov ntaub zoo. Cov ntaub zoo nkauj yog ua los ntawm cov paj rwb zoo nrog qhov loj hauv qab 19 (ntau tshaj 30 ko taw) raws li warp thiab weft yarns. Nws yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm kev nplua, huv si thiab mos daim ntaub lub cev, lub teeb thiab nruj kev ntxhib los mos, tsawg neps thiab impurities ntawm daim ntaub nto, thiab nyias daim ntaub. Nws yog feem ntau ua tiav rau hauv ntau yam ntaub bleached, cov ntaub xim thiab cov ntaub ntawv luam tawm, uas tuaj yeem siv rau cov tsho thiab lwm yam khaub ncaws. Tsis tas li ntawd, daim ntaub dawb (tseem hu ua spinning) ua los ntawm paj rwb xov paj nrog qhov loj me hauv qab 15 (ntau tshaj 40 feet suav) thiab cov ntaub nyias nyias ua los ntawm cov nplua suav (suav suav) paj rwb xov paj yog hu ua iav xov paj lossis Bali yarn, uas muaj zoo huab cua permeability thiab yog tsim rau ua lub caij ntuj sov tsho tiv no, blouses, curtains thiab lwm yam zoo nkauj fabrics. Cov ntaub zoo feem ntau yog siv los ua cov ntaub grey rau cov ntaub bleached, cov ntaub xim thiab cov ntaub ntawv.
(2.) Poplin
Poplin yog lub ntsiab ntau yam ntawm paj rwb ntaub. Nws muaj ob qho tib si txhob lo lo ntxhuav style thiab zoo li xav thiab tsos, yog li nws yog hu ua poplin. Nws yog ib qho zoo, super denser paj rwb ntaub. Poplin daim ntaub muaj cov nplej ntshiab, tag nrho cov nplej, du thiab nruj, zoo huv si thiab du, thiab muaj kev luam ntawv thiab dyeing, xov paj dyed stripe thiab lwm yam qauv thiab ntau yam.
Poplin tau muab faib raws li cov qauv thiab cov xim, suav nrog cov kab txaij zais zais cov kab lattice poplin, satin stripe satin lattice poplin, jacquard poplin, thiab lwm yam, uas yog tsim rau cov laus cov txiv neej thiab cov poj niam lub tsho. Raws li kev luam ntawv thiab dyeing ntawm dawb poplin, tseem muaj bleached poplin, variegated poplin thiab luam poplin. Cov ntawv luam tawm poplin feem ntau yog siv rau cov poj niam thiab menyuam cov khaub ncaws thaum lub caij ntuj sov. Raws li qhov zoo ntawm cov xov paj siv, muaj combed tag nrho kab poplin thiab zoo tib yam combed poplin, uas yog haum rau lub tsho thiab tiab ntawm ntau qib.
(3.) Paj Rwb
Sib txawv ntawm poplin, Bali xov paj muaj qhov ntom me me. Nws yog ib qho yooj yim thiab translucent ntaub woven nrog nplua suav muaj zog twist yarn (ntau tshaj 60 ko taw). Nws muaj cov pob tshab siab, yog li nws tseem hu ua "iav xov paj". Txawm hais tias Bali xov paj yog nyias heev, nws yog ua los ntawm combed zoo paj rwb xov paj nrog ntxiv dag zog, yog li cov ntaub yog pob tshab, xav tias txias thiab elastic, thiab muaj zoo noo noo nqus thiab permeability.
Lub warp thiab weft yarns ntawm Balinese yarn yog ib leeg xov los yog ply yarns. Raws li kev ua haujlwm sib txawv, iav xov paj suav nrog dyed iav xov paj, bleached iav xov paj, luam iav xov paj, xov paj dyed jacquard iav xov paj. Feem ntau yog siv rau lub caij ntuj sov khaub ncaws fabrics, xws li cov poj niam lub caij ntuj sov tiab, txiv neej lub tsho, cov me nyuam cov khaub ncaws, los yog handkerchiefs, veils, curtains, rooj tog fabrics thiab lwm yam zoo nkauj fabrics.
(4.) Kev
Cov khoom siv raw ntawm cov xov paj hemp tsis yog hemp, thiab nws tsis yog paj rwb ntaub sib xyaw nrog hemp fiber. Hloov chaw, nws yog ib daim ntaub nyias nyias uas yog ua los ntawm cov paj rwb zoo nrog nruj twist li warp thiab weft yarn thiab tiaj weave weave. Cov hloov square weave, tseem hu ua linen zoo li weave, ua rau cov ntaub nto qhia ncaj convex kab txaij los yog ntau kab txaij, zoo ib yam li cov tsos ntawm linen; Cov ntaub yog lub teeb, du, tiaj tus, zoo, huv si, tsis tshua muaj ntom, breathable thiab xis, thiab muaj cov style linen, yog li nws hu ua "linen yarn". Txawm li cas los xij, vim nws cov qauv tsim, nws qhov shrinkage tus nqi nyob rau hauv weft kev taw qhia yog loj dua li nyob rau hauv warp kev taw qhia, yog li nws yuav tsum tau txhim kho kom ntau li ntau tau. Ntxiv nrog rau qhov ua ntej shrinkage nyob rau hauv dej, yuav tsum tau them nyiaj mloog mus rau cov nyiaj pab thaum xaws khaub ncaws. Hemp yarn muaj ntau hom tshuaj dawb, dyeing, luam ntawv, jacquard, yarn dyed, thiab lwm yam. Nws yog tsim rau ua txiv neej thiab poj niam lub tsho, me nyuam khaub ncaws, pajamas, tiab, handkerchiefs thiab zoo nkauj fabrics. Nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los no, polyester / paj rwb, polyester / linen, Uygur / paj rwb thiab lwm yam yarns yog feem ntau siv nyob rau hauv kev ua lag luam.
(5.) Canvas
Canvas yog ib hom ntaub tuab. Nws warp thiab weft yarns tag nrho yog ua los ntawm ntau cov xov paj, uas feem ntau yog woven nrog dawb weave. Nws tseem yog woven nrog ob lub weft tiaj los yog twill thiab satin weave. Nws yog hu ua "canvas" vim hais tias nws yog Ameslikas siv nyob rau hauv sailboats. Canvas yog ntxhib thiab tawv, nruj thiab tuab, ruaj thiab hnav-resistant. Nws feem ntau yog siv rau cov txiv neej thiab poj niam lub caij nplooj zeeg thiab lub caij ntuj no tsho loj, tsho, raincoats los yog down tsho. Vim yog cov xov paj sib txawv, nws tuaj yeem muab faib ua cov ntaub ntawv ntxhib thiab cov ntaub ntawv zoo. Feem ntau, qhov qub yog siv los npog, lim, tiv thaiv, khau, hnab ev khoom thiab lwm yam khoom siv; Cov yav tas feem ntau yog siv rau cov khaub ncaws ntau lawm, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tom qab ntxuav thiab polishing, uas muab canvas ib tug mos mos thiab ua rau nws xis nyob rau hnav.
Post lub sij hawm: Dec-12-2022