1.Plain yoluka nsalu
Mankhwala amtunduwu amalukidwa ndi milu yokhotakhota kapena yokhotakhota bwino, yomwe ili ndi mawonekedwe a mfundo zambiri zolumikizirana, mawonekedwe olimba, malo osalala, komanso mawonekedwe omwewo kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo. Pali mitundu yambiri ya nsalu zoluka. Pamene ulusi wokhuthala wosiyanasiyana ndi ulusi wa ulusi, makulidwe osiyanasiyana a ulusi ndi ulusi, ndi kupindika kosiyana, mayendedwe opindika, kulimba, ndi ulusi wamtundu umagwiritsidwa ntchito, nsalu zokhala ndi mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana zimatha kuluka.
Nawa thonje wamba omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ngati nsalu:
(1.) Nsalu Wamba
Nsalu yopanda kanthu ndi nsalu yoyera yopangidwa ndi thonje loyera, ulusi woyera ndi ulusi wosakanikirana; Chiwerengero cha ulusi wa warp ndi weft ndi wofanana kapena wapafupi, ndipo makulidwe a warp ndi kachulukidwe ka weft ndi ofanana kapena kuyandikira. Nsalu zosawoneka bwino zimatha kugawidwa munsalu zowoneka bwino, zapakatikati ndi nsalu zowoneka bwino molingana ndi masitayelo osiyanasiyana.
Nsalu zosaoneka bwino zimatchedwanso coarse cloth. Amalukidwa ndi ulusi wolimba wa thonje pamwamba pa 32 (osakwana 18 ku Britain) ngati ulusi wopingasa ndi ulusi. Amadziwika ndi thupi la nsalu yolimba komanso yokhuthala, ma neps ambiri pamwamba pa nsalu, ndi thupi la nsalu yokhuthala, yolimba komanso yolimba. Nsalu yopyapyala imagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka polumikizirana zovala kapena kupanga zovala ndi mipando yapanyumba pambuyo posindikiza ndi kudaya. M’madera akutali amapiri ndi m’midzi ya asodzi ya m’mphepete mwa nyanja, nsalu zopyapyala zingagwiritsidwenso ntchito monga zofunda, kapena monga zopangira malaya ndi mathalauza pambuyo popaka utoto.
Nsalu zapakatikati, zomwe zimadziwikanso kuti nsalu zamzinda. Amalukidwa ndi ulusi wa thonje wapakatikati wa kukula kwake 22-30 (26-20 mapazi) ngati ulusi wopingasa komanso ulusi. Amadziwika ndi mawonekedwe olimba, osalala komanso ochulukirapo pamwamba pa nsalu, mawonekedwe olimba, mawonekedwe olimba komanso kumva kolimba. Nsalu yowala mu mtundu woyamba ndi yoyenera kupaka utoto ndi kukonza batik, ndipo imagwiritsidwanso ntchito ngati nsalu yachitsanzo pakuyika kapena kudula katatu. Nsalu yodziwika bwino yopaka utoto nthawi zambiri imagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati malaya wamba, mathalauza kapena bulawuzi.
Nsalu zomveka bwino zimatchedwanso nsalu zabwino. Nsalu yabwino kwambiri imapangidwa ndi ulusi wabwino kwambiri wa thonje wokhala ndi kukula kwake pansi pa 19 (kupitilira mapazi 30) ngati ulusi wopindika ndi ulusi. Amadziwika ndi thupi la nsalu zabwino, zoyera komanso zofewa, zopepuka komanso zolimba, zocheperako komanso zonyansa pansaluyo, komanso thupi la nsalu zopyapyala. Nthawi zambiri amasinthidwa kukhala nsalu zosiyanasiyana zotsuka, nsalu zamitundu ndi nsalu zosindikizidwa, zomwe zingagwiritsidwe ntchito ngati malaya ndi zovala zina. Kuphatikiza apo, nsalu wamba (yomwe imadziwikanso kuti kupota) yopangidwa ndi ulusi wa thonje wokhala ndi kukula kosachepera 15 (kuchuluka kwa mapazi 40) ndi nsalu zopyapyala zopangidwa ndi ulusi wa thonje wowerengeka (kuchuluka) zimatchedwa ulusi wagalasi kapena ulusi wa Bali, mpweya wabwino ndipo ndi woyenera kupanga malaya achilimwe, malaya, makatani ndi nsalu zina zokongoletsera. Nsalu zabwino kwambiri zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati nsalu yotuwa pansalu yotungidwa, nsalu zamitundumitundu ndi nsalu zokhala ndi mawonekedwe.
(2.)Papa
Poplin ndiye mtundu waukulu wa nsalu za thonje. Ili ndi mawonekedwe a silika komanso mawonekedwe ofanana ndi mawonekedwe, motero imatchedwa poplin. Ndi nsalu ya thonje yabwino, yowirira kwambiri. Nsalu ya Poplin imakhala ndi njere zomveka bwino, njere zonse, zosalala komanso zolimba, zowoneka bwino komanso zosalala, ndipo zimakhala ndi zosindikiza ndi zopaka utoto, mizere yopaka utoto ndi mitundu ina.
Poplin amagawidwa malinga ndi kuluka mapangidwe ndi mitundu, kuphatikizapo zobisika mizere zobisika latisi poplin, satin mizere satin latisi poplin, jacquard poplin, etc., amene ali oyenera akuluakulu amuna ndi akazi malaya. Malinga ndi kusindikiza ndi utoto wa plain poplin, palinso bleached poplin, variegated poplin ndi poplin yosindikizidwa. Poplin yosindikizidwa nthawi zambiri imagwiritsidwa ntchito pa zovala za amayi ndi ana m'chilimwe. Malinga ndi mtundu wa ulusi womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito, pali mizere yonse ya poplin ndi poplin wamba, omwe ali oyenera malaya ndi masiketi amitundu yosiyanasiyana.
(3.)Mawu a Thonje
Mosiyana ndi poplin, ulusi wa Bali uli ndi kachulukidwe kakang'ono kwambiri. Ndi nsalu yopyapyala yowonda komanso yowoneka bwino yolukidwa ndi ulusi wabwino kwambiri wopotoka (woposa mapazi 60). Ili ndi kuwonekera kwakukulu, kotero imatchedwanso "ulusi wagalasi". Ngakhale ulusi wa Bali ndi woonda kwambiri, umapangidwa ndi ulusi wabwino kwambiri wa thonje wokhala ndi zopindika zolimba, kotero kuti nsaluyo imakhala yowonekera, imakhala yozizira komanso yotanuka, ndipo imakhala ndi mayamwidwe abwino komanso otsekemera.
Ulusi wa ulusi wa Balinese ndi ulusi umodzi kapena ulusi wa ply. Malinga ndi makonzedwe osiyanasiyana, ulusi wagalasi umaphatikizapo ulusi wagalasi wopaka utoto, ulusi wagalasi wopaka utoto, ulusi wagalasi wosindikizidwa, ulusi wagalasi wopaka utoto wa jacquard. Kawirikawiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito pa nsalu za zovala za chilimwe, monga masiketi a chilimwe akazi, malaya achimuna, zovala za ana, kapena mipango, zophimba, makatani, nsalu za mipando ndi nsalu zina zokongoletsera.
(4.)Cambric
Zopangira za ulusi wa hemp si hemp, komanso sinsalu ya thonje yosakanikirana ndi ulusi wa hemp. M'malo mwake, ndi nsalu yopyapyala ya thonje yomwe imapangidwa ndi ulusi wabwino kwambiri wa thonje wokhala ndi zopindika zolimba ngati ulusi wopingasa ndi ulusi komanso ulusi woluka. Kuluka kosinthika kofananako, komwe kumadziwikanso kuti bafuta ngati nsalu, kumapangitsa kuti nsaluyo iwonetsere mikwingwirima yowongoka kapena mikwingwirima yosiyanasiyana, yofanana ndi mawonekedwe a bafuta; Nsaluyo ndi yopepuka, yosalala, yosalala, yabwino, yoyera, yochepa kwambiri, yopuma komanso yabwino, ndipo imakhala ndi kalembedwe kansalu, choncho imatchedwa "nsalu yansalu". Komabe, chifukwa cha kapangidwe kake kakapangidwe kake, kuchuluka kwake komwe kumacheperako kumakhala kokulirapo kuposa komwe kumazungulira, motero ndikofunikira kuwongolera momwe mungathere. Kuphatikiza pa pre shrinkage m'madzi, chidwi chiyenera kulipidwa ku gawoli posoka zovala. Ulusi wa Hemp uli ndi mitundu yambiri ya bleaching, utoto, kusindikiza, jacquard, ulusi wopaka utoto, ndi zina zotero. Ndiwoyenera kupanga malaya a amuna ndi akazi, zovala za ana, pijamas, masiketi, mipango ndi nsalu zokongoletsera. M'zaka zaposachedwa, poliyesitala / thonje, poliyesitala/nsalu, Uygur/thonje ndi ulusi wina wosakanizidwa amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pamsika.
(5.)Chinsalu
Canvas ndi mtundu wansalu wokhuthala. Ulusi wake wa ulusi wopingasa ndi wa ulusi wonse ndi wopangidwa ndi ulusi wambirimbiri, womwe nthawi zambiri umalukidwa ndi ulusi wamba. Amalukidwanso ndi weft plain kapena twill ndi satin weave. Amatchedwa "canvas" chifukwa poyamba ankagwiritsidwa ntchito m'mabwato oyendetsa ngalawa. Canvas ndi yolimba komanso yolimba, yothina komanso yokhuthala, yolimba komanso yosavala. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri kwa amuna ndi akazi a autumn ndi malaya achisanu, ma jekete, malaya amvula kapena pansi. Chifukwa cha makulidwe osiyanasiyana a ulusi, amatha kugawidwa kukhala chinsalu cholimba komanso chinsalu chabwino. Nthawi zambiri, choyambiriracho chimagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka pakuphimba, kusefa, chitetezo, nsapato, zikwama zam'mbuyo ndi zina; Chotsatiracho chimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri popanga zovala, makamaka pambuyo pochapa ndi kupukuta, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti chinsalu chikhale chofewa komanso chimapangitsa kuvala bwino.
Nthawi yotumiza: Dec-12-2022