Chiwerengero cha ulusi ndi kachulukidwe ka nsalu

Chiwerengero cha ulusi

Nthawi zambiri, kuchuluka kwa ulusi ndi gawo lomwe limagwiritsidwa ntchito poyesa makulidwe a ulusi. Kuchuluka kwa ulusi ndi 30, 40, 60, ndi zina zotero. Chiwerengerocho chimakhala chokulirapo, ulusiwo umakhala woonda kwambiri, ubweya wa ubweya umakhala wofewa, ndipo msinkhu wake ndi wapamwamba. Komabe, palibe mgwirizano wosapeŵeka pakati pa chiwerengero cha nsalu ndi khalidwe la nsalu. Nsalu zazikulu kuposa 100 zokha zikhoza kutchedwa "zapamwamba". Lingaliro la kuwerengera limagwira ntchito kwambiri pansalu zowonongeka, koma sizofunikira kwa nsalu zaubweya. Mwachitsanzo, nsalu zaubweya monga Harris tweed ndizochepa.

Nthambi yapamwamba

Kuchuluka ndi kusachulukira nthawi zambiri kumayimira mawonekedwe a nsalu ya thonje. "Kuwerengera kwakukulu" kumatanthauza kuti chiwerengero cha ulusi wogwiritsidwa ntchito pa nsaluyo ndi wochuluka kwambiri, monga ulusi wa thonje JC60S, JC80S, JC100S, JC120S, JC160S, JC260S, ndi zina zotero. Chigawo chowerengera ulusi wa British, chiwerengero chachikulu, chochepa kwambiri. chiwerengero cha ulusi. Malinga ndi ukadaulo wopanga, kuchuluka kwa ulusi kumakwera, ndiye kuti utali wa thonje womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito popota, monga "thonje lalitali lalitali" kapena "thonje lalitali la Aigupto". Ulusi woterewu ndi wofanana, wosinthasintha komanso wonyezimira.

Kuchulukana kwakukulu

Pansi pa inchi iliyonse ya nsalu, ulusiwo umatchedwa wopingasa, ndipo ulusiwo umatchedwa weft. Chiwerengero cha kuchuluka kwa ulusi wokhotakhota ndi kuchuluka kwa ulusi wa weft ndi kuchuluka kwa nsalu. "Kuchulukana kwakukulu" nthawi zambiri kumatanthawuza kuchuluka kwa ulusi wopota ndi ulusi wa nsalu, ndiko kuti, pali ulusi wambiri womwe umapanga nsalu pagawo lililonse, monga 300, 400, 600, 1000, 12000, ndi zina zotero. Kuchuluka kwa ulusi kumapangitsa kuti nsaluyo ikhale yolimba kwambiri.

Nsalu zopanda kanthu

Warp ndi weft amalumikizana kamodzi ulusi wina uliwonse. Nsalu zoterezi zimatchedwa nsalu zamba. Amadziwika ndi malo ambiri olumikizirana, mawonekedwe owoneka bwino, mawonekedwe akumbuyo ndi kumbuyo komwe, nsalu yopepuka, mpweya wabwino, pafupifupi zidutswa 30, komanso mtengo wamba.

Twill nsalu

Warp ndi weft amalumikizidwa kamodzi pazingwe ziwiri zilizonse. Mapangidwe a nsalu amatha kusinthidwa powonjezera kapena kuchepetsa mfundo zopingasa za warp ndi weft, zomwe zimatchedwanso nsalu za twill. Amadziwika ndi kusiyana pakati pa kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo, mfundo zochepa zolumikizirana, ulusi wautali woyandama, kumverera kofewa, kachulukidwe ka nsalu, zinthu zokhuthala komanso mphamvu zamphamvu zitatu. Chiwerengero cha nthambi chimasiyana kuchokera pa 30, 40 ndi 60.

Nsalu yopaka utoto

Kuluka kopaka utoto kumatanthauza kuluka nsalu ndi ulusi wamitundu pasadakhale, m'malo modaya ulusiwo ukaukuluka munsalu yoyera. Mtundu wa ulusi wopaka utoto ndi yunifolomu popanda kusiyana kwa mtundu, ndipo kufulumira kwa mtundu kudzakhala bwino, ndipo sikophweka kuzimiririka.

Nsalu ya Jacquard: poyerekeza ndi "kusindikiza" ndi "zokongoletsa", imatanthawuza chitsanzo chomwe chimapangidwa ndi kusintha kwa kayendetsedwe ka warp ndi weft pamene nsalu ikuluka. Nsalu ya Jacquard imafuna kuwerengera kwa ulusi wabwino komanso zofunikira zazikulu za thonje yaiwisi.

Nsalu za "Thandizo lapamwamba ndi kachulukidwe kakang'ono" ndizosakwanira?

Ulusi wokwera kwambiri komanso nsalu yochuluka kwambiri imakhala yochepa kwambiri, choncho nsaluyo imakhala yofewa komanso yowala bwino. Ngakhale ndi nsalu ya thonje, imakhala yosalala, yofewa komanso yowoneka bwino pakhungu, ndipo kagwiritsidwe ntchito kake kamakhala kopambana kuposa kansalu wamba kachulukidwe ka ulusi.