Corduroy

Corduroy ikozwe cyane cyane mu ipamba, kandi ikavangwa cyangwa igahuzwa na polyester, acrylic, spandex nizindi fibre. Corduroy ni umwenda ufite imirongo miremire ya velheti yakozwe hejuru yacyo, igacibwa ubudodo ikazamurwa, kandi igizwe nububoshyi bwa veleti hamwe nubutaka. Nyuma yo gutunganywa, nko gukata no gukaraba, hejuru yigitambara kigaragara nkumugozi ufite ibibyimba bigaragara, bityo izina.

Imikorere ：

Imyenda ya Corduroy iroroshye, yoroshye kandi yoroshye, ifite imirongo ya veleti isobanutse kandi izengurutse, yoroshye ndetse irabagirana, umubyimba kandi idashobora kwihanganira kwambara, ariko biroroshye kurira, cyane cyane imbaraga zamarira kuruhande rwa velheti ni nke.

Mugihe cyo kwambara imyenda ya corduroy, igice cyacyo cya fuzz gihura nisi yo hanze, cyane cyane inkokora, umukufi, cuff, ivi nibindi bice byimyenda bishobora guterana hanze igihe kirekire, kandi fuzz biroroshye kugwa. .

Ikoreshwa:

Inzira ya Corduroy ya veleti irazengurutse kandi irapompa, irwanya kwambara, umubyimba, yoroshye kandi ishyushye. Ikoreshwa cyane cyane mu myambaro, inkweto n'ingofero mu gihe cyizuba n'itumba, kandi ikwiriye no mu myenda yo gushushanya ibikoresho, imyenda, imyenda ya sofa, ubukorikori, ibikinisho, n'ibindi.

Ibyiciro rusange

EUbwoko bwa nyuma

Elastique corduroy: fibre ya elastike yongewe kumutwe wintambara hamwe no kuboha imyenda hepfo ya corduroy kugirango ubone corduroy ya elastique. Kwiyongera kwa fibre polyurethane birashobora kunoza imyambarire, kandi birashobora gukorwa mumyenda ibereye; Icyitegererezo cyingirakamaro ni cyiza cyimiterere yimyenda yo hepfo no kubuza umugozi kumeneka; Icyitegererezo cyingirakamaro kirashobora kunoza imiterere yimyenda, kandi igateza imbere icyerekezo cyamavi hamwe ninkokora yimyenda yimyenda gakondo.

Ubwoko bwa Viscose

Viscose corduroy: gukoresha viscose nka veleti ya veleti irashobora kunonosora ibintu, kumva urumuri no kumva amaboko ya corduroy gakondo. Viscose corduroy yazamuye drapability, irabagirana, ibara ryiza hamwe no kumva neza amaboko, bikaba bimeze nka veleti.

Ubwoko bwa polyester

Polyester corduroy: Hamwe n'umuvuduko wihuse wubuzima, abantu bitondera cyane kubungabunga byoroshye, gukaraba no kwambara imyenda. Kubwibyo, polyester corduroy ikozwe muri polyester nayo ni ishami ryingirakamaro ryibicuruzwa. Ntabwo igaragara gusa mumabara, nziza mugukaraba no kwambara, ariko kandi ni nziza muburyo bwo kugumana imiterere, ikwiriye gukora imyenda isanzwe.

Ubwoko bw'ipamba

Ipamba y'amabara y'amabara: Kugirango uhuze ibikenewe byo kurengera ibidukikije muri iki gihe, gukoresha ibikoresho bishya bitangiza ibidukikije kuri corduroy rwose bizatuma bimurika nubuzima bushya. Kurugero, corduroy yoroheje ikozwe mu ipamba yamabara asanzwe (cyangwa ibikoresho nyamukuru) ikoreshwa nkishati yegeranye kubagabo nabagore, cyane cyane kubana mugihe cyizuba n'itumba, bigira ingaruka zo kurinda umubiri wumuntu nibidukikije. Yarn irangi irangi rya corduroy: gakondo ya corduroy irangi irangi muguhuza no gucapwa. Niba itunganijwe mubicuruzwa bikozwe mu ibara, irashobora gushushanywa mumabara atandukanye ya veleti nubutaka (bushobora gutandukanywa cyane), ibara rivanze rya veleti, ihinduka gahoro gahoro ryibara rya veleti nizindi ngaruka. Imyenda irangi irangi kandi yanditswe irashobora kandi gufatanya. Nubwo ikiguzi cyo gusiga no gucapa ari gito, kandi ikiguzi cyo kuboha imyenda irangi ni gito, ubutunzi bwimiterere namabara bizazana imbaraga zurudaca kuri corduroy. Gukata ninzira yingenzi yo kurangiza ya corduroy nuburyo bukenewe bwo kuzamura corduroy. Uburyo gakondo bwo gukata corduroy burigihe ntabwo buhinduka, bwabaye impamvu yingenzi yo kubuza iterambere rya corduroy.

Umuyoboro muto

Umuyoboro mwinshi kandi unanutse: Iyi myenda ikoresha uburyo bwo gukata igice kugirango imyenda isanzwe yazamuye ikora imirongo yubunini kandi yoroheje. Bitewe n'uburebure butandukanye bwa fluff, imirongo yinini kandi yoroheje ya corduroy iranyanyagiye murutonde, bikungahaza ingaruka ziboneka kumyenda.

Ubwoko bwo gukata rimwe na rimwe

Gukata corduroy rimwe na rimwe: muri rusange, corduroy yaciwe no kureremba imirongo miremire. Niba gukata rimwe na rimwe byemejwe, weft ireremba imirongo miremire yaciwe mugihe gito, ikora ibice byombi bihagaritse bya fluff hamwe na parallel itunganijwe neza ya wef ireremba imirongo miremire. Ingaruka zishushanyijeho, hamwe nimbaraga eshatu-zumvikana hamwe nudushya no kugaragara bidasanzwe. Fluff na non fluff concavity hamwe na convex ikora imirongo ihindagurika, gride nubundi buryo bwa geometrike.

Ubwoko bwimisatsi

Flying hair corduroy: Ubu buryo bwa corduroy bugomba guhuza uburyo bwo gutema nuburyo bwimyenda kugirango bigire ingaruka nziza yo kubona. Amazi asanzwe ya corduroy afite ubumwe bwa V cyangwa ubumwe bwa W kumuzi. Mugihe bikenewe guhura nubutaka, ishami rizakuraho ingingo zubutaka zifatika, kugirango uburebure bwikirundo bureremba buzanyura mumutwe wikirundo hanyuma bwambuke imyenda yombi. Mugihe ukata ikirundo, igice cyikirundo hagati yurushinge rwombi ruzacibwa ku mpande zombi hanyuma kinjizwemo nigikoresho cyo gukuramo ikirundo, bityo bigire ingaruka zikomeye zo gutabara. Niba bihujwe no gukoresha ibikoresho bibisi, tissue yubutaka ikoresha filament, yoroheje kandi ibonerana, kandi irashobora gukora ingaruka za veleti yatwitse.

Imiterere y'ubukonje

Corduroy ikonje yatunganijwe mu 1993 kandi itwara isoko ry’imbere mu Bushinwa kuva 1994 kugeza 1996. Kuva mu majyepfo ugana mu majyaruguru, “Ubukonje bukabije” bwagiye buhoro buhoro. Nyuma ya 2000, isoko ryohereza ibicuruzwa hanze ryatangiye kugurishwa neza. Kuva mu 2001 kugeza 2004, yageze ku rwego rwo hejuru. Noneho ifite icyifuzo gihamye nkigicuruzwa cyuburyo busanzwe bwa corduroy. Tekinike yo gukonjesha irashobora gukoreshwa muburyo butandukanye aho mahame ari fibre selile. Isohora irangi kuva kumutwe wa corduroy ikoresheje okiside-igabanya kugabanya ingaruka zubukonje. Izi ngaruka ntizishobora gusa kugaruka kumuraba no kwigana, ariko kandi zihindura icumbi ridasanzwe cyangwa kwera kwa mahame ahantu byoroshye kwambara mugihe umugozi wa cururoy ukoreshejwe, kandi ukazamura imikorere yimyambarire hamwe nu rwego rwimyenda.

Hishimikijwe uburyo busanzwe bwo kurangiza bwa corduroy, hongewemo uburyo bwo koza amazi, hanyuma hongewemo umubare muto wibikoresho byo kuzimya byongewe kumuti wo gukaraba, kugirango fluff izashira muburyo busanzwe kandi bidatunguranye mugihe cyo gukaraba, bikagira ingaruka za kwigana umweru ushaje no gukonja.

Ibicuruzwa bikonje birashobora gukorwa mubicuruzwa bikonje byuzuye nibicuruzwa bikonjesha intera, kandi ibicuruzwa bikonjesha intera birashobora gushirwaho nubukonje bwigihe gito hanyuma umusatsi, cyangwa mukogosha imirongo miremire kandi mito. Nuburyo ki bwamenyekanye cyane kandi bukunzwe ku isoko, tekinike yo gukonjesha iracyari icyitegererezo cyo kongeramo imiterere nini kubicuruzwa bya corduroy kugeza ubu.

Ubwoko bw'amabara

Ibishishwa hamwe na fluff byamabara abiri ya corduroy yerekana amabara atandukanye, kandi binyuze muburyo bwo guhuza amabara yombi, uburyo bwibicuruzwa byerekana ububengerane mu gihu, bwimbitse kandi bushishikaye, kugirango imyenda ibashe kwerekana ingaruka zamabara impinduka muri dinamike kandi ihagaze.

Ihinduka ryamabara abiri ya corduroy gutter irashobora kugerwaho muburyo butatu: gukoresha uburyo butandukanye bwo gusiga amarangi ya fibre zitandukanye, guhindura inzira ya fibre isa, hamwe nudodo dusize irangi. Muri byo, umusaruro wingaruka za bicolor zakozwe na fibre isa binyuze muguhindura inzira nizo zigoye cyane, cyane cyane ko kubyara ingaruka bigoye kubyumva.

Koresha ibintu bitandukanye byo gusiga irangi rya fibre zitandukanye kugirango utange ingaruka zibara zibiri: komatanya urufunzo, hepfo yohasi hamwe no kurunda ibirundo hamwe na fibre zitandukanye, gusiga irangi hamwe namabara ahuye na fibre, hanyuma uhitemo kandi uhuze amabara yamabara atandukanye. shiraho burigihe guhinduranya ibicuruzwa bibiri byamabara. Kurugero, polyester, nylon, ipamba, ikivuguto, viscose, nibindi bisize irangi ryirangi ryamabara hamwe n irangi rya aside, mugihe ipamba irangi hamwe nibindi bice, kuburyo inzira yo gusiga byoroshye kugenzura kandi ibicuruzwa byarangiye birahagaze neza. Nkuko amarangi adasanzwe akoreshwa mu gusiga fibre ya selile nayo afite amarangi amwe kuri fibre proteine, irangi rya aside irashobora gusiga irangi, ubwoya na nylon icyarimwe. Intungamubiri za poroteyine ntizishobora guhangana nubushyuhe bwo hejuru busabwa kugirango irangi ritatanye nizindi mpamvu. Bisa na pamba / ubwoya, ubwoya / polyester, silk / nylon nibindi bivanga, ntibikwiriye kubikorwa byo gusiga amarangi kabiri.

Ubu buryo ntibwerekana gusa inyungu zuzuzanya nibikoresho bitandukanye bya fibre, ariko kandi bituma bakora impinduka nziza muburyo bwiza. Ariko, imbogamizi yubu buryo ni uguhitamo ubwoko bubiri bwibikoresho. Ntibisaba gusa ibintu bitandukanye byo gusiga amarangi bitagira ingaruka kuri mugenzi we, ariko kandi byujuje ibisabwa ko inzira imwe yo gusiga irangi idashobora kwangiza imitungo yundi fibre. Kubwibyo, ibyinshi muri ibyo bicuruzwa ni fibre chimique na fibre selile, kandi ipamba ya polyester ibicuruzwa byamabara abiri nibyo byoroshye kubyumva kandi bikuze cyane, kandi byabaye ibicuruzwa bizwi cyane muruganda.

Ubwoko bumwe bwa fibre butanga amabara abiri binyuze muburyo bwo guhindura inzira: ibi bivuga kubyara ibicuruzwa na veleti yibara ryibara ryibara ryibiri kuri corduroy yubwoko bumwe bwibikoresho fatizo, ahanini bivuga fibre selile, ishobora kugerwaho binyuze muri guhuza hamwe nimpinduka zubukonje, gusiga irangi, gutwikira, gucapa nubundi buhanga. Ubukonje busize amabara abiri burakoreshwa mubicuruzwa bifite inyuma / umwijima. Ibara ryashizwemo amabara abiri ahanini arakoreshwa muburyo buciriritse kandi bworoshye / ibicuruzwa byimbitse bya kera. Gucapa amabara abiri arashobora gukoreshwa nubwoko bwose bwamabara, ariko biratoranya amarangi.