1.Sobanura imyenda
Ubu bwoko bwibicuruzwa bikozwe mubudodo busanzwe cyangwa butandukanye busanzwe, bufite ibiranga ingingo nyinshi zuzuzanya, imiterere ihamye, ubuso bworoshye, hamwe ningaruka imwe igaragara imbere n'inyuma. Hariho ubwoko bwinshi bwimyenda isanzwe. Iyo ubunini butandukanye buringaniye hamwe nubudodo, ubudodo butandukanye hamwe nubudodo butandukanye, hamwe nuburyo butandukanye bwo guhinduranya, kugoreka icyerekezo, impagarara, hamwe nudoda twamabara, imyenda irashobora kugira imyenda itandukanye.
Hano haribisanzwe bikoreshwa mubudodo busanzwe nkimyenda:
（1. ric Imyenda yo mu kibaya
Umwenda usanzwe ni ubudodo busanzwe bukozwe mu ipamba isukuye, fibre isukuye hamwe nudodo twavanze; Umubare wimyenda yintambara nu mwenda uringaniye cyangwa ufunze, nubucucike bwintambara nubucucike buringaniye cyangwa hafi. Imyenda isanzwe irashobora kugabanywamo imyenda yoroheje, imyenda isanzwe hamwe nigitambara cyiza ukurikije uburyo butandukanye.
Umwenda usanzwe nanone witwa umwenda mubi. Yiboheye hamwe nudodo duto duto duto hejuru ya 32 (munsi yabatari 18 mubwongereza) nkintambara nudodo. Irangwa numubiri wigitambara gikabije kandi kibyibushye, neps nyinshi hejuru yigitambara, numubiri wimyenda, ikomeye kandi iramba. Umwenda utubutse ukoreshwa cyane cyane mu myenda ihuza cyangwa gukora imyenda n'ibitambaro byo mu nzu nyuma yo gucapa no gusiga irangi. Mu turere twa kure two mu misozi no mu midugudu y’uburobyi ku nkombe, imyenda idakabije irashobora kandi gukoreshwa nko kuryama, cyangwa nk'ibikoresho by'ishati n'ipantaro nyuma yo gusiga irangi.
Imyenda isanzwe, izwi kandi nk'igitambaro cyo mu mujyi. Yakozwe mu budodo buciriritse bungana na 22-30 (metero 26-20) nk'intambara n'intambara. Irangwa nuburyo bukomeye, imyenda yoroshye kandi isukuye hejuru yimyenda, imiterere yuzuye, imiterere ihamye hamwe no kumva bikomeye. Umwenda usanzwe mu ibara ryibanze urakwiriye gusiga irangi rya karuvati no gutunganya batik, kandi usanzwe ukoreshwa nkumwenda wintangarugero mugukata cyangwa gukata ibipimo bitatu. Umwenda usanzwe mu gusiga irangi ukoreshwa cyane mu mashati asanzwe, ipantaro cyangwa blus.
Umwenda mwiza kandi witwa umwenda mwiza. Imyenda isanzwe ikozwe mu budodo bwiza bw'ipamba ifite ubunini buri munsi ya 19 (metero zirenga 30) nk'intambara n'udodo. Irangwa numubiri mwiza, usukuye kandi woroshye umubiri, urumuri rworoshye kandi rukomeye, neps nkeya numwanda hejuru yigitambara, numubiri muto. Ubusanzwe itunganyirizwa mumyenda itandukanye yogejwe, imyenda yamabara hamwe nigitambaro cyanditse, bishobora gukoreshwa mumashati nindi myenda. Byongeye kandi, imyenda isanzwe (izwi kandi no kuzunguruka) ikozwe mu budodo bwa pamba ifite ubunini buri munsi ya 15 (kubara metero zirenga 40) hamwe nigitambara cyoroshye gikozwe mubudodo bwiza (kubara cyane) ubudodo bw'ipamba bwitwa ibirahuri cyangwa ibirahuri bya Bali, bifite umwuka mwiza uhumeka kandi ubereye gukora amakoti yizuba, blusse, imyenda nibindi bitambaro byiza. Umwenda mwiza ukoreshwa cyane nkumwenda wijimye kumyenda yashegeshwe, imyenda yamabara nigitambara.
(2.) Poplin
Poplin nubwoko nyamukuru bwimyenda y'ipamba. Ifite imyenda yubudodo kandi isa niyumva kandi igaragara, nuko yitwa poplin. Nigitambara cyiza, cyiza cyane. Umwenda wa poplin ufite ingano zisobanutse, ingano zuzuye, zoroshye kandi zifatanye, zumva neza kandi zoroshye, kandi zifite gucapa no gusiga irangi, umurongo wambaraga irangi hamwe nubundi buryo butandukanye.
Poplin igabanijwe ukurikije uburyo bwo kuboha amabara, harimo umurongo wihishe lattice poplin, satin stripe satin lattice poplin, jacquard poplin, nibindi, bikwiriye amashati yabagabo nabagore bakuru. Ukurikije icapiro no gusiga amarangi ya poplin isanzwe, hariho na poplin yanduye, poplin zitandukanye kandi poplin yanditse. Icapiro rya poplin risanzwe rikoreshwa mumyambaro yabagore nabana mugihe cyizuba. Ukurikije ubwiza bwimyenda ikoreshwa, hariho imirongo yuzuye poplin hamwe na poplin isanzwe ikomatanyirijwe hamwe, ikwiranye nishati nijipo yo mu byiciro bitandukanye.
(3.) Impamba
Bitandukanye na poplin, Bali yarn ifite ubucucike buto cyane. Nigitambara cyoroshye kandi cyoroshye gikozwe muburyo bwiza bwo kubara (metero zirenga 60). Ifite umucyo mwinshi, bityo nanone yitwa "ikirahuri cy'ikirahure". Nubwo ubudodo bwa Bali ari buto cyane, bukozwe mu budodo bwiza bwa pamba hamwe nudusimba twongerewe imbaraga, bityo umwenda urabonerana, ukumva ukonje kandi woroshye, kandi ufite uburyo bwiza bwo kwinjiza no gutembera neza.
Imyenda yintambara hamwe nubudodo bwimyenda ya Balineya ni ubudodo bumwe cyangwa ply. Ukurikije uburyo butandukanye, ubudodo bwikirahure burimo irangi ryirahure ryirahure, ibirahuri byirabura, ubudodo bwikirahure bwanditse, ubudodo bwirangi bwa jacquard. Ubusanzwe bikoreshwa mu myenda yo mu mpeshyi, nk'amajipo y'abagore yo mu mpeshyi, amashati y'abagabo, imyenda y'abana, cyangwa ibitambaro, ibitambara, ibitambara, imyenda, ibikoresho byo mu nzu n'ibindi bitambara.
(4.) Cambric
Ibikoresho fatizo byintambara ya hemp ntabwo ari ikivuguto, ntanubwo ari umwenda w ipamba uvanze na fibre fibre. Ahubwo, ni igitambaro cyoroshye cya pamba gikozwe mu budodo bwiza bw'ipamba hamwe no kugoreka cyane nk'intambara no kuboha imyenda no kuboha. Guhindura kare kwaduka, bizwi kandi nk'ubudodo nk'ububoshyi, bituma hejuru yimyenda yerekana imirongo igororotse cyangwa imirongo itandukanye, isa nigitambara; Igitambara kiroroshye, cyoroshye, kiringaniye, cyiza, gisukuye, gike cyane, gihumeka kandi cyoroshye, kandi gifite uburyo bwimyenda, bityo bwitwa "ubudodo bwimyenda". Ariko, kubera imiterere yubuyobozi, igipimo cyayo cyo kugabanuka mubyerekezo bya weft ni kinini kuruta icyerekezo cyintambara, bityo rero bigomba kunozwa bishoboka. Usibye kugabanuka kwamazi mumazi, hakwiye kwitabwaho amafaranga mugihe adoda imyenda. Hemp yarn ifite ubwoko bwinshi bwo guhumanya, gusiga irangi, gucapa, jacquard, irangi irangi, nibindi. Birakwiriye gukora amashati yabagabo nabagore, imyenda yabana, pajama, amajipo, ibitambaro nigitambaro cyo gushushanya. Mu myaka yashize, polyester / ipamba, polyester / imyenda, Uygur / ipamba nizindi mvange zivanze zikunze gukoreshwa kumasoko.
(5.) Canvas
Canvas ni ubwoko bwimyenda. Ubudodo bwarwo hamwe nubudodo bwarwo byose bikozwe mumigozi myinshi yubudodo, mubisanzwe bikozwe mubudodo busanzwe. Iraboshywe kandi hamwe nububwa bubiri busanzwe cyangwa twill na satin. Yitwa “canvas” kubera ko mbere yakoreshwaga mu bwato. Canvas irakomeye kandi irakomeye, irakomeye kandi irabyimbye, irakomeye kandi irwanya kwambara. Ikoreshwa cyane kubagabo n'abagore amakoti yumuhindo nimbeho, ikoti, amakoti yimvura cyangwa ikoti yo hepfo. Bitewe n'ubunini butandukanye bw'ubudodo, burashobora kugabanywamo ibice bikaze hamwe na canvas nziza. Mubisanzwe, iyambere ikoreshwa cyane mugupfuka, kuyungurura, kurinda, inkweto, ibikapu nibindi bikorwa; Iyanyuma ikoreshwa cyane mugukora imyenda, cyane cyane nyuma yo gukaraba no gusya, itanga canvas ibyiyumvo byoroshye kandi byoroshye kwambara.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-12-2022