Kugabanuka kw'imyenda bivuga ijanisha ryo kugabanuka kw'imyenda nyuma yo gukaraba cyangwa koga. Kugabanuka ni ibintu byerekana ko uburebure cyangwa ubugari bwimyenda ihinduka nyuma yo gukaraba, kubura umwuma, gukama nibindi bikorwa muburyo runaka. Urwego rwo kugabanuka rurimo ubwoko butandukanye bwa fibre, imiterere yimyenda, imbaraga zitandukanye zo hanze kumyenda mugihe cyo kuyitunganya, nibindi.
Fibre ya sintetike hamwe nigitambara kivanze bifite kugabanuka kworoheje, bigakurikirwa nu mwenda, ubwoya, imyenda nigitambara cya pamba, mugihe imyenda yubudodo igabanuka cyane, mugihe fibre ya viscose, ipamba yubukorikori hamwe nubudodo bwubukorikori bifite ubunini bunini. Mu buryo bufite intego, hariho kugabanuka no kugabanuka mubitambara byose by'ipamba, kandi urufunguzo ni ukurangiza inyuma. Kubwibyo, imyenda yimyenda yo murugo muri rusange iragabanuka. Birakwiye ko tumenya ko nyuma yo kuvurwa mbere yo kugabanuka, ntibisobanura ko nta kugabanuka, ariko ko igipimo cyo kugabanuka kigenzurwa muri 3% -4% byurwego rwigihugu. Ibikoresho by'imyenda, cyane cyane ibikoresho bya fibre bisanzwe, bizagabanuka. Kubwibyo, mugihe duhitamo imyenda, ntitugomba guhitamo gusa ubuziranenge, ibara nuburyo bwigitambara, ahubwo tunasobanukirwe no kugabanuka kwimyenda.
01.Ingaruka za fibre no kugabanuka kuboha
Iyo fibre ubwayo imaze gufata amazi, izabyara urwego runaka rwo kubyimba. Mubisanzwe, kubyimba kwa fibre ni anisotropique (usibye nylon), ni ukuvuga uburebure bugufi kandi diameter ikiyongera. Mubisanzwe, ijanisha ryuburebure butandukanye hagati yigitambara mbere na nyuma yamazi nuburebure bwumwimerere byitwa kugabanuka. Nubushobozi bukomeye bwo kwinjiza amazi, niko kubyimba gukomera no kugabanuka cyane, niko bigenda bihagarara neza.
Uburebure bw'igitambara ubwabwo buratandukanye n'uburebure bw'urudodo (ubudodo) bwakoreshejwe, kandi itandukaniro ubusanzwe rigaragazwa no kugabanuka kw'imyenda.
Kugabanya imyenda (%) = [ubudodo (ubudodo) uburebure bwurudodo - uburebure bwimyenda] / uburebure bwimyenda
Iyo umwenda umaze gushyirwa mumazi, kubera kubyimba kwa fibre ubwayo, uburebure bwimyenda buragabanuka, bikaviramo kugabanuka. Kugabanuka kwimyenda biratandukanye no kugabanuka kwayo. Kugabanuka kwimyenda biratandukana nuburyo bwimyenda hamwe nububoshyi. Ububoshyi bwo kuboha ni buto, umwenda urahuzagurika kandi ubyimbye, kandi kugabanuka ni binini, bityo kugabanuka kwimyenda ni nto; Niba impuzu zo kuboha ari nini, umwenda uzaba urekuye kandi woroshye, kugabanuka kwimyenda bizaba bito, kandi kugabanuka kwimyenda bizaba binini. Mu gusiga irangi no kurangiza, kugirango hagabanuke kugabanuka kwimyenda, kurangiza mbere yo gukoreshwa akenshi byongera ubwinshi bwimyenda no kunoza kugabanuka hakiri kare, kugirango bigabanye kugabanuka kwimyenda.
02.Impamvu zo kugabanuka
① Iyo fibre izunguruka, cyangwa umugozi urimo kuboha, gusiga irangi no kurangiza, fibre yintambara mu mwenda iramburwa cyangwa igahinduka imbaraga ziva hanze, kandi mugihe kimwe, fibre yintambara hamwe nimyenda itanga imihangayiko yimbere. Muri static yumwanya wo kwidagadura, cyangwa static ituje yo kuruhuka, cyangwa imbaraga zo kuruhuka zitose, kwidagadura kwuzuye, kurekura imihangayiko yimbere muburyo butandukanye, kuburyo fibre yimyenda nigitambara bisubira muburyo bwambere.
Ib fibre zitandukanye hamwe nigitambara cyazo bifite dogere zitandukanye zo kugabanuka, biterwa ahanini nibiranga fibre zabo - fibre hydrophilique ifite urugero runini rwo kugabanuka, nka pamba, ikivuguto, viscose nizindi fibre; Hydrophobique fibre ifite kugabanuka gake, nka fibre synthique.
③ Iyo fibre iri mumiterere itose, izabyimba munsi yibikorwa byamazi yatose, bizamura diameter ya fibre. Kurugero, kumyenda, bizahatira fibre curvature radiyo yumwanya wo kuboha umwenda kwiyongera, bikaviramo kugabanya uburebure bwimyenda. Kurugero, iyo fibre fibre yaguwe mugikorwa cyamazi, agace kambukiranya igice kiyongeraho 40 ~ 50% naho uburebure bukiyongera 1 ~ 2%, mugihe fibre synthique iba hafi 5% yo kugabanuka kwubushyuhe, nko guteka kugabanuka kw'amazi.
④ Iyo fibre yimyenda ishyushye, imiterere nubunini bwa fibre ihinduka kandi igasezerana, kandi ntishobora gusubira muburyo bwambere nyuma yo gukonja, bita fibre therm shrinkage. Ijanisha ry'uburebure mbere na nyuma yo kugabanuka k'ubushyuhe byitwa igipimo cyo kugabanuka k'ubushyuhe, ubusanzwe bigaragazwa nijanisha ry'uburebure bwa fibre mu mazi abira kuri 100 ℃; Uburyo bushyushye bwo mu kirere nabwo bukoreshwa mu gupima ijanisha ryo kugabanuka mu kirere gishyushye hejuru ya 100 and, kandi uburyo bwo gukoresha amavuta nabwo bukoreshwa mu gupima ijanisha ryo kugabanuka mu mavuta hejuru ya 100 ℃. Imikorere ya fibre nayo iratandukanye mubihe bitandukanye nkimiterere yimbere, ubushyuhe bwigihe nigihe. Kurugero, kugabanuka kwamazi abira ya fibre polyester yatunganijwe ni 1%, kugabanuka kwamazi abira ya vinylon ni 5%, naho kugabanuka kwumwuka wa nylon ni 50%. Fibre ifitanye isano rya hafi no gutunganya imyenda hamwe nuburinganire bwimyenda yimyenda, itanga urufatiro rwo gushushanya inzira ikurikira.
03. Kugabanuka kw'imyenda rusange
Impamba 4% - 10%;
Fibre chimique 4% - 8%;
Ipamba polyester 3.5% –5 5%;
3% kumyenda yera yera;
3-4% kumyenda yubururu;
Poplin ni 3-4.5%;
3-3.5% kuri calico;
4% kumyenda ya twill;
10% by'imyenda y'akazi;
Ipamba yubukorikori ni 10%.
04.Impamvu zigira ingaruka zo kugabanuka
1. Ibikoresho bito
Kugabanuka kwimyenda biratandukanye nibikoresho fatizo. Muri rusange, fibre ifite hygroscopique nyinshi izaguka, yongere diameter, igabanye uburebure, kandi igabanuke cyane nyuma yo koga. Kurugero, fibre zimwe za viscose zifite amazi ya 13%, mugihe imyenda ya fibre synthique ifite amazi mabi, kandi kugabanuka kwayo ni nto.
2. Ubucucike
Kugabanuka kw'imyenda biratandukanye n'ubucucike bwabyo. Niba uburebure n'uburebure bisa, uburebure n'ubunini bigabanuka nabyo biregeranye. Imyenda ifite ubwinshi bwintambara ifite kugabanuka kwintambara. Ibinyuranye, imyenda ifite ubucucike burenze ubwinshi bwintambara ifite kugabanuka kwinshi.
3. Ubunini bw'imyenda
Kugabanuka kw'imyenda biratandukanye hamwe no kubara. Kugabanuka kw'imyenda hamwe no kubara kwinshi ni binini, naho imyenda ifite ibara ryiza ni nto.
4. Uburyo bwo gukora
Kugabanuka kwimyenda biratandukanye nibikorwa bitandukanye. Muri rusange, muburyo bwo kuboha no gusiga irangi no kurangiza, fibre igomba kuramburwa inshuro nyinshi, kandi igihe cyo kuyitunganya ni kirekire. Umwenda ufite impagarara nini zikoreshwa zifite kugabanuka kwinshi, naho ubundi.
5. Ibigize fibre
Ugereranije na fibre synthique (nka polyester na acrylic), fibre yibimera karemano (nka pamba na hembe) hamwe nudusimba twongeye kuvuka (nka viscose) byoroshye gukurura ubuhehere no kwaguka, bityo kugabanuka ni binini, mugihe ubwoya bworoshye yunvikana bitewe nubunini bwubunini hejuru ya fibre, bigira ingaruka kumiterere yacyo.
6. Imiterere yimyenda
Mubisanzwe, ihame ryimyenda yimyenda iboshye iruta iy'imyenda iboshye; Ihagarikwa ryimiterere yimyenda ihanitse iruta iy'imyenda mike. Mu myenda iboshywe, kugabanuka kwimyenda isanzwe muri rusange ni bito ugereranije nibitambara bya flannel; Mu mwenda uboshye, kugabanuka k'ubudodo busanzwe ni bito ugereranije n'ibitambara by'imbavu.
7. Uburyo bwo gukora no gutunganya
Kuberako imyenda byanze bikunze iramburwa na mashini mugihe cyo gusiga irangi, gucapa no kurangiza, hariho impagarara kumyenda. Ariko, umwenda uroroshye kugabanya impagarara nyuma yo guhura namazi, bityo tuzasanga umwenda ugabanuka nyuma yo gukaraba. Mubikorwa nyabyo, mubisanzwe dukoresha pre shrinkage kugirango dukemure iki kibazo.
8. Gukaraba uburyo bwo kwita
Kwitaho gukaraba birimo gukaraba, gukama no gucuma. Buri ntambwe muri izi ntambwe eshatu zizagira ingaruka ku kugabanuka kwimyenda. Kurugero, ihagarikwa ryimiterere yintoki zogejwe ni nziza kuruta iy'imashini zogejwe, kandi ubushyuhe bwo gukaraba nabwo buzagira ingaruka kumiterere yacyo. Muri rusange, uko ubushyuhe buri hejuru, niko umutekano uhagaze. Uburyo bwo kumisha icyitegererezo nabwo bugira uruhare runini mu kugabanuka kwimyenda.
Uburyo bukoreshwa muburyo bwo kumisha ni ugutonyanga byumye, gutondeka ibyuma bishya, kumanika kumanika no kuzunguruka ingoma. Uburyo bwo kumisha butonyanga bugira uruhare runini mubunini bwimyenda, mugihe uburyo bwo kuzunguruka ingunguru yumye bwumuti bugira uruhare runini mubunini bwimyenda, naho izindi ebyiri ziri hagati.
Byongeye kandi, guhitamo ubushyuhe bukwiye bwicyuma ukurikije imiterere yigitambara birashobora kandi kunoza kugabanuka kwimyenda. Kurugero, impamba nigitambara birashobora gushiramo ibyuma hejuru yubushyuhe bwo hejuru kugirango bigabanuke. Nyamara, uko ubushyuhe buri hejuru, nibyiza. Kuri fibre synthique, ibyuma byo hejuru yubushyuhe ntibishobora kunoza kugabanuka kwayo, ariko byangiza imikorere yabyo, nkibitambara bikomeye kandi byoroshye.
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Igihe cyo kohereza: Jul-05-2022