1.Plain weave jira
Zvigadzirwa zvemhando iyi zvakarukwa zvine plain weave kana plain weave variation, ine hunhu hwemapoinzi akawanda anopindirana, magadzirirwo akasimba, nzvimbo yakatsetseka, uye chitarisiko chakafanana chemberi neshure. Kune mhando dzakawanda dzemachira akarukwa. Kana shinda dzakasiyana dzakakora uye shinda dzeweft, wap uye weft density dzakasiyana, nekumonereka kwakasiyana, kumonyorora kwakananga, tension, uye shinda dzeruvara, machira ane maitiro akasiyana anogona kurukwa.
Heano mamwe anowanzo shandiswa plain cotton semachira:
(1.)Plain Fabric
Mucheka wakapfava chirukwa chakajeka chakagadzirwa nedonje rakachena, fiber yakachena uye shinda yakasanganiswa; Huwandu hweshinda dzewap uye weft dzakaenzana kana kuvhara, uye density yewarp uye weft density zvakaenzana kana kuvhara. Jira rakajeka rinogona kukamurwa kuita jira rakaomarara, jira repakati uye rakapfava rakapfava jira zvinoenderana nemataera akasiyana.
Mucheka wakakora wakajeka unonziwo mucheka wakakora. Yakarukwa neshinda yakakasharara yedonje pamusoro pe32 (isingasviki gumi nesere yeBritish kuverenga) seshinda yewap uye weft. Iyo inoratidzwa nekukasharara uye gobvu mucheka muviri, yakawanda neps pamusoro pejira, uye gobvu, yakasimba uye yakasimba jira muviri. Jira rakakasharara rinonyanya kushandiswa kugadzira zvipfeko nemucheka wefenicha mushure mekudhinda nekudhaya. Munzvimbo dziri kure dzine makomo nemisha yokuredza iri mumhenderekedzo yegungwa, machira akakasharara anogonawo kushandiswa semibhedha, kana sezvinhu zvehembe nematirauzi pashure pokudhayiwa.
Mucheka wepakati wakajeka, unozivikanwawo sejira reguta. Yakarukwa neshinda yedonje yepakati yehukuru 22-30 (26-20 tsoka) seshinda yewap uye weft. Iyo inoratidzirwa neyakaomesesa chimiro, yakatsetseka uye yakapfava jira pamusoro, dense chimiro, yakasimba magadzirirwo uye yakaoma kunzwa. Iro jira rakajeka riri muruvara rwekutanga rakakodzera kudhayi uye kugadzira batik, uye rinowanzo shandiswa sejira remuenzaniso rekucheka kana matatu-dimensional kucheka. Mucheka wakajeka mukudhaya unonyanya kushandiswa kune hembe dzenguva dzose, bhurugwa kana bhurauzi.
Mucheka wakanaka wakajeka unonziwo jira rakanaka. Mucheka wakapfava wakagadzirwa neshinda yakanaka yedonje ine saizi iri pasi pe 19 (kupfuura 30 tsoka) seshinda yewap uye weft. Iyo inoratidzwa neyakaomesesa, yakachena uye yakapfava mucheka muviri, akareruka uye akasimba magadzirirwo, mashoma neps uye tsvina pajira rejira, uye mucheka mutete muviri. Inowanzogadziriswa mumucheka wakasiyana-siyana wakasvibiswa, jira rine ruvara uye jira rakadhindwa, rinogona kushandiswa kune shati nezvimwe zvipfeko. Pamusoro pezvo, jira rakajeka (rinozivikanwawo sekuti kuruka) rakagadzirwa neshinda yedonje ine saizi iri pasi pegumi nemashanu (kupfuura 40 tsoka kuverenga) uye jira rakatetepa rakagadzirwa nekuverenga kwakanaka (yakakwira) shinda yedonje inonzi girazi shinda kana Bali shinda, iyo ine. mhepo yakanaka yemhepo uye yakakodzera kugadzira majasi ezhizha, mabhurawuti, maketeni uye mamwe machira ekushongedza. Jira rakatsetseka rinonyanya kushandiswa semucheka wegrey mucheka wakacheneswa, machira ane mavara uye machira ane patani.
(2.)Poplin
Poplin ndiyo yakasiyana-siyana yemucheka wekotoni. Iyo ine ese ari maviri masitaera uye yakafanana kunzwa uye kutaridzika, saka inonzi poplin. Ijira rakanaka, rakanyanya dense donje. Mucheka wePoplin une zviyo zvakajeka, zviyo zvizere, zvakatsetseka uye zvakasimba, zvakashambidzika uye zvakapfava zvinonzwa, uye zvine kudhinda nekudhaya, shinda yakadhayiwa mutsara uye mamwe mapatani nemhando.
Poplin inokamurwa maererano nokuruka mapatani uye mavara, kusanganisira yakavanzwa mutsetse yakavanzwa reti poplin, satin mutsetse satin lattice poplin, jacquard poplin, nezvimwewo, izvo zvakakodzera vakuru varume nevakadzi hembe. Zvinoenderana nekudhindwa uye kudhayiwa kweplin poplin, kune zvakare bleached poplin, variegated poplin uye yakadhindwa poplin. Yakadhindwa poplin inowanzoshandiswa kune zvipfeko zvevakadzi nevana muzhizha. Zvinoenderana nemhando yeshinda yakashandiswa, kune yakamisikidzwa yakazara mutsara poplin uye yakajairwa combed poplin, ayo akakodzera mashati uye masiketi emagiredhi akasiyana.
(3.)Cotton Voile
Yakasiyana nepoplin, Bali yarn ine diki density. Iro jira rakatetepa uye rinopenya rakarukwa nerunyoro rwakasimba rwakarukwa (kupfuura 60 tsoka). Iine kujeka kwepamusoro, saka inonziwo "girazi shinda". Kunyangwe shinda yeBali yakatetepa kwazvo, inogadzirwa neshinda yakakandwa yedonje ine yakasimbiswa, saka jira racho rinoonekera, rinonzwa kutonhorera uye rakasununguka, uye rine hunyoro hwekunyudza uye kupenya.
Iyo yarn uye weft yarn yeBalinese yarn ingangove shinda imwechete kana ply yarn. Zvinoenderana nekugadziriswa kwakasiyana, jira regirazi rinosanganisira rakadhayiwa girazi shinda, bleached girazi shinda, yakadhindwa girazi shinda, dhayi yejacquard girazi shinda. Inowanzo shandiswa machira ejira rezhizha, senge masiketi echikadzi ezhizha, shati dzevarume, zvipfeko zvevana, kana hengechefu, machira, machira, machira efenicha uye mamwe machira ekushongedza.
(4.)Cambric
Iyo mbishi yeshinda yehemp haisi hemp, uye haisi jira redonje rakasanganiswa nehemp fiber. Pane kudaro, ijira redonje rakatetepa iro rakagadzirwa neshinda yakanaka kwazvo yedonje inomonereka seshinda yewap uye weft uye plain weave. Iyo yakachinjika sikweya weave, inozivikanwawo serineni seyakarukwa, inoita kuti jira pamusoro riratidze mitsetse yakatwasuka kana mitsetse yakasiyana-siyana, yakafanana nechitarisiko cherineni; Mucheka wacho wakareruka, wakapfava, wakapfava, wakanaka, wakachena, wakaderera, unofema uye wakasununguka, uye une chimiro cherineni, saka unonzi "mucheka werineni". Nekudaro, nekuda kwechimiro chayo chesangano, shrinkage rate munzira yeweft yakakura kupfuura iyo muwarp direction, saka inofanirwa kuvandudzwa zvakanyanya sezvinobvira. Pamusoro peiyo pre shrinkage mumvura, kutarisisa kunofanirwa kubhadharwa kune mvumo pakusona zvipfeko. Rudzi rweHemp rune marudzi akawanda ekugadzira bleaching, dhayi, kudhinda, jacquard, dhayi, etc. Yakakodzera kugadzira hembe dzevarume nedzechikadzi, mbatya dzevana, mapijama, masiketi, hengechepfu nemachira ekushongedza. Mumakore achangopfuura, polyester/donje, polyester/rineni, Uygur/donje nemamwe mashinda akasanganiswa anowanzoshandiswa pamusika.
(5.)Canvas
Canvas imhando yejira gobvu. Shinda dzayo dzakarukwa neshinda dzese dzakagadzirwa neshinda dzakawanda, idzo dzinowanzorukwa ne plain weave. Yakarukwawo nedouble weft plain kana twill uye satin weave. Inonzi "canvas" nekuti yakatanga kushandiswa muzvikepe. Canvas yakaoma uye yakaoma, yakasimba uye yakakora, yakasimba uye isingapfeki. Inonyanya kushandiswa kune varume nevakadzi matsutso uye majasi echando, jaketi, raincoats kana pasi jaketi. Nekuda kwekusiyana kweshinda ukobvu, inogona kupatsanurwa kuita rough canvas uye yakanaka canvas. Kazhinji, iyo yekutanga inonyanya kushandiswa kuvhara, kusefa, kudzivirira, shangu, mabhegi uye zvimwe zvinangwa; Iyo yekupedzisira inonyanya kushandiswa pakugadzira zvipfeko, kunyanya mushure mekugezwa uye kukwenenzverwa, izvo zvinopa canvas kunzwa kwakapfava uye kunoita kuti zvive nyore kupfeka.
Nguva yekutumira: Zvita-12-2022