U-Adidas, umdondoshiya wezemidlalo waseJalimane, noStella McCartney, umklami waseBrithani, bamemezele ukuthi bazokwethula izingubo ezimbili ezintsha ezisimeme - indwangu egaywe kabusha engu-100% iHoodie engapheli kanye nengubo yethenisi ye-bio fiber.
Indwangu egaywe kabusha engu-100% i-Hoodie engapheli i-Hoodie iwuhlelo lokuqala lwentengiso lwe-nucycl yobuchwepheshe bokugaywa kabusha kwezingubo ezindala.Ngokusho kuka-Stacy Flynn, umsunguli kanye no-CEO we-evrnu, ubuchwepheshe be-nucycl "empeleni buguqula izingubo ezindala zibe izinto ezingavuthiwe zekhwalithi ephezulu" ngokukhipha amabhlogo wesakhiwo samangqamuzana emicu yasekuqaleni nokudala imicu emisha ngokuphindaphindiwe, ngaleyo ndlela andise umjikelezo wokuphila impahla yendwangu.I-Infinite Hoodie isebenzisa indwangu ehlanganisiwe ye-jacquard eyenziwe ngezinto ezintsha ezingu-60% ze-nucycl kanye no-40% wekotini wemvelo ophinde wacutshungulwa kabusha.Ukwethulwa kwe-Hoodie engapheli kusho ukuthi izingubo ezisebenza kahle kakhulu zizophinde zisetshenziswe ngokugcwele esikhathini esizayo esiseduze.
Ingubo yethenisi ye-Biofibric ithuthukiswe ngokuhlanganyela ngemicu yebhawudi, inkampani ye-bioengineering sumeric fiber fiber.Yingubo yokuqala yethenisi eyenziwe ngentambo ehlanganisiwe ye-cellulose kanye nezinto ezintsha ze-microsilk.I-Microsilk iyingxenye yamaprotheni eyenziwe ngezithako ezivuselelekayo ezifana namanzi, ushukela kanye nemvubelo, engakwazi ukubola ngokugcwele ekupheleni kwempilo yesevisi.
Engxenyeni yokuqala yalo nyaka, i-Tebu Group Co., Ltd. (ngemuva kwalokhu ebizwa ngokuthi “Tebu”) ikhiphe umkhiqizo omusha wokuvikela imvelo - isikibha se-polylactic acid e-Xiamen, eSifundazweni saseFujian.Ingxenye ye-polylactic acid emkhiqizweni omusha ikhuphuke kakhulu yafika ku-60%.
I-Polylactic acid ivutshelwa kakhulu futhi ikhishwe kummbila, utshani nezinye izitshalo eziqukethe isitashi.Ngemuva kokuphotha, iba yi-polylactic acid fiber.Izingubo ezenziwe nge-polylactic acid fiber zingonakaliswa ngokwemvelo phakathi nonyaka ongu-1 ngemuva kokugqitshwa emhlabathini ngaphansi kwemvelo ethile.Ukushintsha i-plastic fiber fiber nge-polylactic acid kunganciphisa ukulimala kwemvelo okuvela emthonjeni.Kodwa-ke, ngenxa yokumelana nokushisa okuphezulu kwe-polylactic acid, izinga lokushisa lenqubo yokukhiqiza liyadingeka ukuthi libe ngaphansi kuka-0-10 ℃ kunalelo lokudaya kwe-polyester evamile futhi libe ngaphansi kuka-40-60 ℃ kunalelo lokusetha.
Ithembele esiteji sayo sobuchwepheshe bokuvikela imvelo, ikhuthaze ngokukhethekile ukuvikelwa kwemvelo kulo lonke iketango kusukela ezinhlangothini ezintathu "zokuvikelwa kwemvelo kwezinto ezibonakalayo", "ukuvikelwa kwemvelo kokukhiqiza" kanye "nokuvikelwa kwemvelo kwezingubo".Ngosuku losuku lwemvelo lomhlaba ngoJuni5, 2020, yethula i-windbreaker ye-polylactic acid, yaba ibhizinisi lokuqala embonini ukunqoba inkinga yombala we-polylactic acid kanye nokufeza ukukhiqizwa ngobuningi kwemikhiqizo ye-polylactic acid.Ngaleso sikhathi, i-polylactic acid yayibalelwa ku-19% wendwangu yonke ye-windbreaker.Ngonyaka owodwa kamuva, kuma-T-shirts anamuhla e-polylactic acid, lesi silinganiso sikhuphuke kakhulu safinyelela ku-60%.
Njengamanje, imikhiqizo eyenziwe ngezinto ezithinta imvelo ibalwe ku-30% wesigaba esiphelele seqembu le-Tebu.U-Tebu uthe uma zonke izindwangu zemikhiqizo ye-Tebu zishintshwa nge-polylactic acid fiber, i-300million cubic metres yegesi yemvelo ingasindiswa ngonyaka, okulingana nokusetshenziswa kwe-2.6 billion kilowatt amahora kagesi kanye namathani angu-620000 wamalahle.
Ngokusho kwe-spoiler ekhethekile, okuqukethwe kwe-PLA kwamajezi abalukiwe abahlela ukuyethula ngekota yesibili ka-2022 kuzophinde kukhushulwe ku-67%, kanti i-PLA ehlanzekile engu-100% izokwethulwa engxenyeni yesithathu yonyaka ofanayo.Ngokuzayo, uTebu kancane kancane uzozuza impumelelo ekusetshenzisweni kwemikhiqizo eyodwa ye-polylactic acid, futhi alwele ukuzuza ukukhishwa kwemakethe kwesizini eyodwa kwemikhiqizo ye-polylactic acid engaphezu kwesigidi ngo-2023.
Esithangamini sabezindaba ngalolo suku, uTebu uphinde waveza yonke imikhiqizo yokuvikela imvelo “yomndeni wokuvikela imvelo” weqembu.Ngaphandle kwezingubo ezenziwe ngomumo ezenziwe ngezinto ze-polylactic acid, kukhona nezicathulo, izingubo nezesekeli ezenziwe ngekotini ye-organic, i-serona, iphepha le-DuPont nezinye izinto zokuvikela imvelo.
I-Allbirds: zuza indawo emakethe yezemidlalo yezokungcebeleka eqhudelana kakhulu ngezinto ezintsha kanye nomqondo wokusimama.
Kungase kube nzima ukucabanga ukuthi izinyoni zonke, "izintandokazi" emkhakheni wokudla kwezemidlalo, zisungulwe iminyaka engu-5 kuphela.
Selokhu yasungulwa, i- allbirds, okuwuphawu lwezicathulo olugcizelela ezempilo kanye nokuvikelwa kwemvelo, inesamba sezimali esiphelele esingaphezu kuka-US $200million.Ngo-2019, inani lokuthengiswa kwezinyoni zonke selifinyelele ku-US $220million.I-Lululemon, uhlobo lwezingubo zemidlalo, yayinemali engenayo ye-US $ 170million ngonyaka ngaphambi kokufaka isicelo se-IPO.
Ikhono le-Allbirds lokuthola indawo emakethe yezemidlalo yezokungcebeleka eqhudelana kakhulu alihlukaniseki ekwenziweni okusha nokuhlola kwezinto ezintsha.I-Allbirds ikwazi ukusebenzisa izinto ezintsha ezihlukene ukuze iqhubeke yenze imikhiqizo entofontofo, ethambile, engasindi, eluhlaza nehambisana nemvelo.
Thatha uchungechunge lomgijimi wesihlahla olwethulwe yizinyoni zonke ngo-March2018 njengesibonelo.Ngaphezu kwe-wool insole eyenziwe ngoboya be-merino, indwangu engaphezulu yalolu chungechunge yenziwe nge-pulp ye-eucalyptus yaseNingizimu Afrika, futhi igwebu elimnandi eliphakathi nendawo lenziwe lomoba waseBrazil.Imicu yomoba ilula futhi iyaphefumula, kuyilapho ifayibha ye-Eucalyptus yenza phezulu kukhululeke kakhudlwana, kuphefumuleke futhi kube silky.
Isifiso se-Allbirds asigcini nje embonini yezicathulo.Isiqalile ukwandisa umugqa wayo wezimboni kumasokisi, izingubo zokugqoka kanye neminye imikhakha.Okuhlala kungashintshile ukusetshenziswa kwezinto ezintsha.
Ngo-2020, yethula uchungechunge “oluhle” lobuchwepheshe obuluhlaza, futhi isikibha senkalankala ye-Trino esenziwe nge-Trino material + chitosan sasidonsa amehlo.I-Trino material + i-chitosan iyifayibha esimeme eyenziwe nge-chitosan egobolondweni le-crab yemfucuza.Ngenxa yokuthi ayidingi ukuthembela ezintweni ezikhipha insimbi njenge-zinc noma isiliva, ingenza izingubo zibe antibacterial futhi ziqine.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, ama-allbirds ahlela futhi ukwethula izicathulo zesikhumba ezenziwe ngesikhumba sezitshalo (ngaphandle kwepulasitiki) ngoDisemba 2021.
Ukusetshenziswa kwalezi zinto ezintsha kwenze imikhiqizo ye-allbirds yakwazi ukuzuza ukuqamba okusha okusebenzayo.Ukwengeza, ukusimama kwalezi zinto ezintsha nakho kwenza ingxenye ebalulekile yamanani emikhiqizo yazo.
Iwebhusayithi esemthethweni yama-allbirds ikhombisa ukuthi i-carbon footprint yepheya lamateki ajwayelekile yi-12.5 kg CO2e, kanti isilinganiso se-carbon footprint yezicathulo ezikhiqizwa yizinyoni zonke yi-7.6 kg CO2e (i-carbon footprint, okusho ukuthi, ingqikithi yokukhishwa kwegesi ebamba ukushisa okubangelwa abantu, imicimbi, izinhlangano, izinsizakalo noma imikhiqizo, ukukala umthelela wemisebenzi yabantu endaweni ezungezile).
I-Allbirds izophinde ikhombise ngokucacile kusizindalwazi sayo esisemthethweni ukuthi zingakanani izinsiza ezingalondolozwa ngezinto ezivikela imvelo.Isibonelo, uma kuqhathaniswa nezinto zendabuko ezifana nokotini, i-Eucalyptus fiber material esetshenziswa yizinyoni zonke zehlisa ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi ngo-95% kanye nokukhishwa kwekhabhoni ngesigamu.Ngaphezu kwalokho, izintambo zemikhiqizo ye-allbirds zenziwe ngamabhodlela epulasitiki angasetshenziswa kabusha.(Umthombo: I-Xinhua Ezezimali nezomnotho, amandla e-Yiba, inethiwekhi, ukuqedwa okuphelele kweplatifomu yendwangu yendwangu）
Imfashini eqhubekayo - ukusuka emvelweni kuya ekubuyeleni emvelweni
Eqinisweni, kusukela kulo nyaka, ngaphambi kokuba i-China ibeke phambili umqondo wokuthi "i-carbon peaking kanye ne-carbon neutralization", ukuvikelwa kwemvelo, intuthuko esimeme kanye nomthwalo wemfanelo wezenhlalakahle kube omunye wemizamo eqhubekayo yamabhizinisi amaningi.Imfashini esimeme isiphenduke inkambiso enkulu yentuthuko yemboni yezingubo zomhlaba wonke engenakuzitshwa.Abathengi abaningi ngokwengeziwe baqala ukunaka ukubaluleka okuhle kwemikhiqizo endaweni ezungezile - noma ingaphinda igaywe kabusha, noma ingabangela ukungcola okuphansi noma ngisho nokungcola kwemvelo, futhi maningi amathuba okuba yamukele imibono equkethwe imikhiqizo.Basengabonisa umuzwa wabo siqu wokubaluleka nedumela kuyilapho bephishekela imfashini.
Amabhrendi amakhulu ayaqhubeka nokusungula:
I-Nike isanda kukhipha uchungechunge lokuqala "lokuthuthela ku-zero" lwezingubo zangaphansi zokuvikela imvelo, okuhloswe ngalo ukufeza ukukhishwa kwe-carbon zero kanye ne-zero imfucuza ngo-2025, futhi amandla avuselelekayo kuphela asetshenziswa kuzo zonke izikhungo zawo kanye namaketanga okuhlinzeka;
ILululemon yethule isikhumba esifana nezinto ezenziwe nge-mycelium ngoJulayi nonyaka.Ngokuzayo, izokwethula inayiloni enezitshalo njengempahla yokusetshenziswa esikhundleni sezindwangu zenayiloni zendabuko;
Uhlobo lwezemidlalo oluphambili lwase-Italy u-Paul & Shark lisebenzisa ukotini ogaywe kabusha kanye nepulasitiki egaywe kabusha ukwenza izingubo;
Ngokungeziwe kumabhrendi angezansi komfula, amabhrendi efayibha akhuphukayo nawo ahlala efuna impumelelo:
NgoJanuwari wonyaka odlule, inkampani yakwa-Xiaoxing yethula i-creora regen spandex ekhiqizwa ngezithako ezingu-100% ezigaywe kabusha;
Iqembu laseLanjing lethule imicu ye-hydrophobic esekwe esitshalweni eyonakele ngokuphelele kulo nyaka.
Ukusuka ekusetshenzisweni kabusha, okugaywa kabusha kuya kokuvuselelekayo, bese kuya kokubolayo, uhambo lwethu ulwandle lwezinkanyezi, futhi umgomo wethu ukuwususa emvelweni sibuyele emvelweni!
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jun-02-2022