1.Plain weave Indwangu
Lolu hlobo lwemikhiqizo lulukwe nge-plain weave noma i-plain weave ehlukahlukene, enezici zamaphuzu amaningi axhumanisayo, ukuthungwa okuqinile, indawo ebushelelezi, kanye nomphumela ofanayo wokubukeka wangaphambili nangemuva.Kunezinhlobonhlobo eziningi zezindwangu ze-plain weave.Lapho kusetshenziswa izintambo ezihlukene eziwugqinsi kanye nezintambo ze-weft, ukuminyana okuhlukene kwe-wap ne-weft, kanye ne-twist ehlukene, isiqondiso sokusonta, ukushuba, nezintambo zombala, izindwangu ezinemiphumela ehlukene yokubukeka zingalukwa.
Nazi ezinye izindwangu ezivame ukusetshenziswa ezivamile ezifana nezindwangu:
(1.) Indwangu Engenalutho
Indwangu engenalutho iyilukwe elingenalutho elenziwe ngekotini elihlanzekile, i-fiber ehlanzekile kanye nentambo ehlanganisiwe;Inani lezintambo ze-warp ne-weft liyalingana noma liyavaleka, futhi ukuminyana kwe-warp kanye nokuminyana kwe-weft kuyalingana noma kuyavaleka.Indwangu engenalutho ingahlukaniswa ibe yindwangu engenalutho eqinile, indwangu ephakathi nendawo kanye nendwangu ecacile engenalutho ngokwezitayela ezahlukene.
Indwangu engenalutho eqinile ibizwa nangokuthi indwangu eqinile.Ilukwe ngentambo kakotini emahhadlahhadla ngaphezu kuka-32 (isibalo esingaphansi kwe-18 saseBrithani) njengentambo eqondile kanye ne-weft.Ibonakala ngomzimba wendwangu ewugqinsi futhi ewugqinsi, ama-neps amaningi phezu kwendwangu, kanye nomzimba wendwangu owugqinsi, oqinile futhi ohlala isikhathi eside.Indwangu eqinile isetshenziselwa ikakhulukazi ukuhlanganisa izingubo noma ukwenza indwangu yempahla nefenisha ngemva kokuphrinta nokudaya.Ezindaweni ezikude ezisezintabeni nasezindaweni zokudoba ezisogwini, indwangu emagebhugebhu ingasetshenziswa njengendawo yokulala, noma njengempahla yokwenza amahembe namabhulukwe ngemva kokudaywa.
Indwangu engenalutho emaphakathi, eyaziwa nangokuthi indwangu yedolobha.Ilukwe ngentambo kakotini emaphakathi yosayizi 22-30 (26-20 amafidi) njenge-warp ne-weft.Ibonakala ngesakhiwo esiqinile, indawo yendwangu ebushelelezi futhi egcwele, isakhiwo esiminyene, ukuthungwa okuqinile kanye nomuzwa oqinile.Indwangu engenalutho embala oyinhloko ifaneleka ukudaya uthayi nokucubungula i-batik, futhi isetshenziswa futhi njengendwangu yesampula yokusika ulwelwesi noma ukusika izinhlangothi ezintathu.Indwangu engenalutho ekudayeni isetshenziselwa ikakhulukazi amahembe, amabhulukwe noma ama-blouses.
Indwangu ecacile ibizwa nangokuthi indwangu ecolekileyo.Indwangu ecacile eyenziwe ngentambo kakotini ecolekile enosayizi ongaphansi kuka-19 (ngaphezu kwamafidi angama-30) njengezintambo ezinqamula kanye ne-weft.Ibonakala ngomzimba wendwangu ecolekile, ehlanzekile futhi ethambile, ukuthungwa okulula nokuqinile, ama-neps amancane nokungcola endaweni yendwangu, nomzimba wendwangu encane.Ivame ukucutshungulwa ngendwangu ehlukahlukene e-bleached, indwangu enemibala kanye nendwangu ephrintiwe, engasetshenziselwa amahembe nezinye izingubo.Ngaphezu kwalokho, indwangu engenalutho (eyaziwa nangokuthi ukuphotha) eyenziwe ngentambo kakotini enosayizi ongaphansi kwe-15 (ukubala okungaphezu kwamamitha angu-40) kanye nendwangu encane engenalutho eyenziwe ngokubala (ukubala okuphezulu) intambo kakotini ibizwa ngokuthi intambo yengilazi noma intambo ye-Bali, umoya omuhle futhi ufanelekile ukwenza amajazi ehlobo, ama-blouses, amakhethini nezinye izindwangu zokuhlobisa.Indwangu ecolekile isetshenziswa kakhulu njengendwangu empunga yendwangu emhlophe, indwangu enombala kanye nendwangu enephethini.
(2.)I-Polin
I-Poplin iyinhlobonhlobo eyinhloko yendwangu kakotini.Inakho kokubili isitayela sikasilika nomuzwa ofanayo nokubukeka, ngakho ibizwa ngokuthi i-poplin.Yindwangu kakotini enhle, eminyene kakhulu.Indwangu ye-Poplin inokusanhlamvu okucacile, okusanhlamvu okugcwele, okubushelelezi futhi okuqinile, ukuzwa okuhlanzekile nokushelelayo, futhi inokuphrinta nokudaya, umugqa odayiwe wentambo namanye amaphethini nezinhlobonhlobo.
I-Poplin ihlukaniswe ngokulandela amaphethini nemibala yokweluka, okuhlanganisa umugqa ofihliwe we-lattice poplin, i-satin stripe satin lattice poplin, i-jacquard poplin, njll., efanelekile kumahembe abesilisa nabesifazane abakhulu.Ngokusho kokuphrinta nokudaywa kwe-poplin engenalutho, kukhona ne-poplin e-bleached, i-variegated poplin kanye ne-poplin ephrintiwe.I-poplin ephrintiwe ivamise ukusetshenziselwa izingubo zabesifazane nezingane ehlobo.Ngokwekhwalithi yentambo esetshenzisiwe, kukhona i-poplin yomugqa ogcwele ohlanganisiwe kanye ne-poplin ehlanganisiwe evamile, elungele amahembe neziketi zamabanga ahlukene.
(3.)Izwi likakotini
Ihluke ku-poplin, intambo ye-Bali ine-density encane kakhulu.Kuyindwangu engenalutho ekhanyayo nencane futhi ekhanyayo eyalukwe ngentambo eqinile yokusonta (ngaphezu kwamafidi angama-60).Inokukhanya okuphezulu, ngakho-ke ibizwa nangokuthi "intambo yengilazi".Yize intambo ye-Bali izacile kakhulu, yenziwe ngentambo kakotini ekalikiwe eqinisiwe, ngakho-ke indwangu isobala, izwakala ipholile futhi inwebeka, futhi inokumuncwa okuhle komswakama kanye nokungeneka.
Izintambo ezinqamulayo nezisonke zentambo ye-Balinese kungaba yizintambo zodwa noma izintambo zeply.Ngokucutshungulwa okuhlukile, intambo yengilazi ihlanganisa intambo yengilazi edayiwe, intambo yengilazi ecijile, intambo yengilazi ephrintiwe, intambo yengilazi ye-jacquard edayiwe.Ngokuvamile esetshenziselwa izindwangu zokugqoka zasehlobo, njengeziketi zasehlobo zabesifazane, amahembe amadoda, izingubo zezingane, noma amaduku, amaveli, amakhethini, izindwangu zefenisha nezinye izindwangu zokuhlobisa.
(4.)Cambric
Impahla eluhlaza yentambo ye-hemp akuyona i-hemp, futhi akuyona indwangu kakotini exutshwe ne-hemp fiber.Kunalokho, indwangu kakotini ezacile eyakhiwe ngentambo kakotini ecolekile esontekile njenge-warp ne-weft weave kanye ne-plain weave.I-square weave eshintshiwe, eyaziwa nangokuthi ilineni njenge-weave, yenza indawo yendwangu ibonise imithende eqondile ye-convex noma imigqa ehlukahlukene, efana nokubukeka kwelineni;Indwangu ilula, ibushelelezi, iphansi, ihlanzekile, ihlanzekile, incane kakhulu, iphefumula futhi inethezekile, futhi inesitayela selineni, ngakho ibizwa ngokuthi "intambo yelineni".Kodwa-ke, ngenxa yesakhiwo sayo senhlangano, izinga lokuncipha kwayo ekuqondeni kwe-weft likhulu kunaleyo ekuqondeni kwe-warp, ngakho-ke kufanele ithuthukiswe ngangokunokwenzeka.Ngaphezu kokuncipha kwamanzi emanzini, ukunakwa kufanele kukhokhwe kwisabelo lapho uthunga izingubo.Intambo ye-Hemp inezinhlobo eziningi zokugcoba, ukudaya, ukuphrinta, i-jacquard, intambo edayiwe, njll. Ilungele ukwenza amahembe amadoda nabesifazane, izingubo zezingane, amaphijama, iziketi, amaduku nezindwangu zokuhlobisa.Eminyakeni yamuva nje, i-polyester/ukotini, i-polyester/ilineni, i-Uygur/ukotini nezinye izintambo ezihlanganisiwe zivame ukusetshenziswa emakethe.
(5.)Amakhanvasi
Ikhanvasi iwuhlobo lwendwangu ewugqinsi.Izintambo zayo eziqondile nezilukiwe zonke zenziwe ngemicu eminingi yezintambo, ngokuvamile ezilukwe nge-plain weave.Iphinde yalukwe nge-double weft plain noma i-twill kanye ne-satin weave.Ibizwa ngokuthi “ikhanvasi” ngoba ekuqaleni yayisetshenziswa ezikebheni zikaseyili.Ikhanvasi ilukhuni futhi iqinile, iqinile futhi iwugqinsi, iqinile futhi ayigugi.Isetshenziswa kakhulu kumajazi ekwindla nabesifazane basekwindla nabasebusika, amabhantshi, amajazi emvula noma amajakhethi aphansi.Ngenxa yobukhulu bezintambo ezihlukene, ingahlukaniswa ibe ukhanvasi omahhadlahhadla kanye neseyili esihle.Ngokuvamile, owokuqala usetshenziselwa ikakhulukazi ukumboza, ukuhlunga, ukuvikela, izicathulo, ojosaka nezinye izinjongo;Eyakamuva isetshenziswa kakhulu ekukhiqizeni izingubo, ikakhulukazi ngemva kokuwashwa nokupholishwa, okunikeza iseyili ukuzwakala okuthambile futhi okuyenza ikhululeke kakhudlwana ukuyigqoka.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Dec-12-2022